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THE "KEVSTONE" SySTE/HS 



Coats, Vests and T^ousehs 



Practical /Ucthods of Cutting bvj 
Proportions and bvj /Measures 

REVISED, ENLARGED AND IMPROVED 



Publishers: 

The Tai^ohs' Review Co. 

New yorl< 
1903 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 


Two Copies 


Received 1 


APR 29 1903 1 


Copyrighl 

cLi'ss a. 


Entr, 
XXc. Nq 


Si S 

COPY 


B. 



i? ■ 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the Year 1903, by 

THE TAILORS' REVIEW CO. 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



CONTENTS. 
PART ONE. 

|P,V I'ROPORTIONATK MEASURES.) 

PAGE 

Preface to First Edition ------------ 8 

Preface to Second Edition ----------- 8 

Introduction -------------- 9 

The Measures of a Man by Proportions -------- 10 

How to Find the Widths - - - 10 

How to Find the Lengths ----------- 12 

The Table of Proportionate Measures --------- 14 

How to Use the Table for Proportionate Forms ------- 16 

How to Use the Table for Disproportionate Forms ------ 16 

The Divisions on the Draftins^-Sqnare -..---.. ig 

Table of Lengths to Height ---------- 20 

Single-Breasted Frock Coat Body (Regular Form) ------ 22 

Single-Breasted Frock Coat Body (Concluded) .-.---- 24 

Three-Button Cutaway Frock Body (Stout Form) ------ 26 

Single-Breasted One- and Three-Button Cutaway Frock Body (Stout Form) - - 28 

Double-Breasted Frock Coat Body --------- 32 

Double-Breasted Frock Coat Body (vStout Form) ------- 34 

Dress Coat Body (Regular Form) --------- 36 

Frock Coat Backs (Completed) ---------- 38 

Whole Backs for Frock Coats ---------- 38 

Whole Backs for Frock Coats (Concluded) -------- 40 

Cutaway Skirt (Regular Form) ---------- 42 

Cutaway Skirt (Corpulent Form) --------- - 44 

Frock Coat Skirt (Regular Form) --------- 46 

Frock Coat Skirt, with extra Drapery (Regular and Corpulent F'orms) - - - 48 

Dress Coat Skirt (Regular and Corpulent Forms) ------ ^o 

Frock Coat Lapels ------------ 52 

Dress Coat Peaked Lapels ---------- 52 

Dress Coat Lapels, Shawl Roll ---------- 54 

Collars -------------- 56 

The Sleeve --------- ----- - 58 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



Single-Breasted Sack Coat (Regular Form ) ....... 64 

Siugle-Breasted Sack Coat (Corpulent Form) - - .- - - - - 66 

Tuxedo Sack Coat (Regular and Corpulent Forms) ------ 68 

Double-Breasted Sack Coat (Regular and Corpulent Forms) - . - - 70 

Whole Backs for Sack Coats 72 

Overcoats -------------- 75 

The Chesterfield, Single-Breasted (Regular Form) ------ 76 

The Chesterfield, Single and Double-Breasted (Corpulent Form) . - - - 80 

Double-Breasted Box Overcoat - -.-. 82 

Double-Breasted Paddock Overcoat ...------ 86 

Siugle-Breasted Paletot Overcoat ...-.---- 90 

The Inverness Overcoat - . . g^ 

The Inverness Cape ------------ 98 

Newmarket and Surtout Overcoats ---------- 100 

The Raglan Overcoat - - - 104 

The Raglan Sleeve ..-.----.--- 106 

Single-Breasted Vest, Creased Collar (Regular Form) . . - - - loS 

Single-Breasted Vest, Creased Collar (Stout Form) - - - - - - no 

Single-Breasted Collarless Vest - - - - - - - - - 112 

Single-Breasted Notch Collar Vest - - - - - - - - - 112 

Double-Breasted Vest - - - - - - - - - - - - 114 

Double-Breasted Vest - - - - - - - - - - - - 115 

Single-Breasted Dress Vest ----------- 116 

Double-Breasted Dress Vest - - - - - - - - - - - 116 

Clergymen's \'ests - ....------- nS 



PART TWO. 

(BY ACTUAL MEASURES.) 

The Purpose of Measures --.-.-...-- 120 

The Measures ------------- 122 

The Over-shoulder and Back-waist Measures - - - - - - - 127 

Single-Breasted Sack Coat ----------- 128 

Military Blouse ...----.----- 132 

Three-Button Frock Coat Body ---------- 136 

Single-Breasted \"est ...-...----- 138 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



PAGE 

Clerical Frock Coat Body ----------- 142 

Policeman's Overcoat ------------ 144 

Fireman's Overcoat ------------ 14S 

Tliree-qnarter or Militar}- Cape ---------- 150 

Half-Circle Cape ----- . - 152 

Close Cape ..------------154 

Tronsers (Regiilar Form. The Forepart) - ------- 156 

Tronsers (Regular Form. The Backpart) - - - - - - - - 158 

Trousers (Corpulent Form) ----------- 160 

Troiisers, Peg-Tops (Regular Form) - - - - - - - - - 164 

Trousers, Clo.se-Fitting (Regular Form) -------- 166 

Trousers, Broadfalls - - - - - - - - - - - - '168 

Knee-Breeches ------------- 170 

C^'cling-Breeches .-.-.------- 174 

Riding-Breeclies (The Forepart) - --------- 17S 

Riding-Breeches (The Backpart) ---------- iSo 

Riding-Breeches (The Continuations) --------- 1S2 

Riding-Breeches (Concluded) -- - - - - - - - -- 184 

Hood 186 

Short Gaiters 188 

Long Gaiters .--...------- 190 




THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. 

npHE s_v.stem.s illustrated and explained in this work are, in many respects, simpler and 
easier to learn than any I have heretofore published. 

The principle on which the}' are based is similar to that given in my last pre\ions 
work, but simplified in many ways, and made more certain and convenient for obtain- 
ing correct sizes, without the uncertain aid of misleading measures. 

The svstems, resting as the}^ do on positive proportions, easily applicable to anv size or 
shape, cannot fail to create in the cutter who adopts them that confidence without which 
success is impossible. 

Through many vears of practical experience, teaching and publishing methods of cut- 
ting, and through a wide acqxmintance with the needs of the trade, I became aware that the 
sinipler a svstem is, if it is scientific, the better will be the results obtained by its use, and the 
more acceptable it will be to all right-minded cutters. It has been, therefore, ni}- eflfort to 
produce just such a s\-stem for each kind of garment, and my efforts have been, I believe, so 
successful that all wht) study this work will be more than compensated for their trouble. 

More illustrations might have easily been given, but they would only increase the size 
of the book without adding to its thoroughness, for those that are given cover ever}- essential 
point, and leave nothing to puzzle or confuse the stiident. 

Hoping that the satisfaction I feel in completing a work as comprehensive and reliable 
as I believe this to be, will be equalled by the appreciation of our discriminating and 
progressive trade, 

I am, always a student and lover of tailoring. 

The Author. 



PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 

'T'HE publishers of this work desire to express their gratification for the many expressions 
of appreciation received from the trade and students of garment cutting in regard to 
the first edition of "The Keystone Systems." 

They are also mindful that some criticisms, alwaj's honest and sometimes just, have 
been made concerning some features of the first edition although these have been compara- 
tively but few in number. 

It would be passing strange if, after a period of thirteen years, nothing had been 
gained b}- the intervening j-ears of experience, or that some improvement in the application 
of a principle, and in the general presetitation of the work was not possible. 

The demand for an enlarged, improved and up-to-date work, following in general the 
principles contained in the Ke\'stone Systems, and coming from those whose success as 
cutters is largely- due to the help the svstems have afforded them in the past, has induced 
the issue of this enlarged and improved edition. It is offered with confidence that it will 
receive the heartv approval and appreciation of the trade, and students in garment cutting. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



INTRODUCTION. 

'T^HAT garment cutting is still largel}- unscientific goes without saying. It will become 
a science when true principles only are employed and are rightl}- used. When a 
scientific system of garment cutting has been evolved cullers will still be largely 
unscientific in their application of it. The most successful cutter then will be the one whose 
procedure is not only based on principles which are true, but who also has the ability to 
rightly use right principles. 

There is a natural law of growth and development of the human form, and under the 
conditions as they are, it is not diihcult, for one who has made the matter a study, to deter- 
mine the right relation of height and circumference, and what are the lengths and widths of 
all the parts in proportion to height and circumference. The data thus gained forms the 
basis from which garments can be constructed suitable for the larger number of forms of any 
given breast circumference. 

The variations from the average development of the human body, caused by heredity, 
climate, food, occupation, etc., can be readily classified into longs, shorts, stouts, fats, over- 
erects, stooping, round shoulders, shoulders high and shoulders low. 

It is one of the principles on which this system is built that average proportions in 
growth and development furnish a substantial basis, upon which the right lengths and 
widths of all the parts of a garment can be determined as required for the greater number of 
forms of any given size. 

The eye and tape-measure are both utilized to determine definitely what the sizes are 
and what is the amount of variation, if there be any, from the average form. There are a 
few comparatively who can determine these variations aided by the eye only. If this was 
always possible measures would be siiperfluous. 

The three essential factors, then, that will best aid in the evolution of a successful 
cutter having intelligence and aptitude for the business are, first, a knowledge of the propor- 
tionate lengths to heights, and of widths to breast and waist circumferences, in the whole 
range of sizes. Second, a trained eye by which variations from the average development can 
be detected and the degree of variation approximately, if not definitely, fixed. Third, a 
knowledge of how to measure rightly and with practical accuracy. The cutter who can cut 
satisfactorily for men of average development only, has a large clientage. The one who has 
the true eye and whose judgment as to the amount of variation, if any, from the average 
form is confirmed by an adequate measurement, can cut satisfactorily for a much larger 
clientage. 

In this work the student is instructed how to draft coats and vests first by proportionate 
measures and then by measures actually taken, so that with only the fundamental sizes, as 
breast, waist, seat and height, garments can be produced for any size or shape, or they may 
be drafted by measures actually taken as circumstances control, The methods for drafting 
in each case are practically the same. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



The Keystone Systems. 



The Measures of a Man by Proportions. 



TVrO table or scheme of proportions I liave yet seen in print, and I have seen many, gives 
definitely or establishes a perfect formula for obtaining correct divisions and sub- 
divisions of either height or circumference measures, and none of them, therefore, can be 
relied upon to secure satisfactory results. 

The eight-head standard of height has formed the basis of innumerable systems of 
proportion ; but the human form so frequently and widely varies from this standard of per- 
fection, that they are practically useless, and there are few indeed who place any reliance on 
them. 

Some years ago the fact was deeply impressed on my mind that a system of proportions 
of the human form, applicable to every shape, normal, stooping, or erect, was not only greatly 
needed by the trade, but was possible also of achievement. This impression induced me to 
seek some principle that should be sound in theory, on which to construct a system that 
should completely fill the requirements of proportionate and disproportionate forms with 
equal exactness. 

On the tables accompanying this work everv length for any height, and width for an}' 
size can be found by corresponding heights and circumferences. To illustrate how the pro- 
portions of the body are obtained, I submit the following problem : 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



HOW TO FIND THE WIDTHS. 



Figure i. 

T^RAW a straight line i8 inches long, or one-half the size of breast, and at a right angle 
with it another half as long — that is, 9 inches. 

Connect the extreme points of these lines by a straight line, which will be the hypothe- 
niise of the triangle, as A E. 

Using E as a pivot, sweep from D, 
which gives F. 

Having secnred point F, nse A as a 
pivot, and sweep from F, which gives B. 

The result obtained is that all the 
points are proportionate to one another, no 
matter what the size may be. 

The sizes are close-measures, but they 
agree with what has been established by 
practical experience. 

The beauty of this and the security insured by 
obtaining the widths by the formula of this problem 
will be shown more distinctly. 'on testing them on 
smaller and larger forms. 

The result produces a vast diiTerence between those 
divisions generally given on scales, for while they give a 
regular increase and decrease, they are in one case too 
great and in the other too small. 

The parts or proportions of the triangle are relative to 
one another in all cases, whether they be larger or smaller. 

This principle can be applied with absolute correctness. On 
application to any size we find that it determines the different 
points of the body, or such subdivisions as are needed in har- 
monious proportions. 

For instance, if we wish to know the proportionate size of blade 
and width of back for a form of 36 breast measure, we draw line A D 
one-half this size, 18 inches, and place one-half of this, 9 inches, from 
D to E. Connect A and E. Pivot at E and sweep from D which fixes 
F. Pivot at A and sweep from F to B. 

The distance from A to B is the blade size from the front of armhole to 
center of back, 1 1 inches. From B to D is equal to the half width of back, 
6% inches, and the difference between the two is the diameter of the arm- 
hole, 4^5 inches. 




THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



HOW TO FIND THE LENGTHS. 

Figure 2. 

I_JA\"ING the total height of a figure measuring 5 feet 8 inches, we draw a straight line of 
this length as from E to O, 2.nd one at right angles with it at the top, which shall be 
one-half of the length of the first line, as from E to P. 

Connect P and O. 

P to C is the same as P to E. 

Pivot at O and sweep from C to establish I. 

It will be observed that we have now the length from the top of the head to hollow of 
waist, and the length from tlie waist to the floor, or what ma}- be called the outside length for 
trousers. 

Let this subdivision continue and obtain other points. 

E to X is one-half of the length from E to L 

Connect I and X. 

X to J is the same as X to E. 

Pivot at I and sweep from J to establish F, just opposite the socket at neck. 

Measure from F to I and yon have the length to the natural waist. 

The lengths thus obtained will be fonud to be in harmony with any breast circumference. 

Suppose you have a form whose height is 5 feet 4 inches. The result in this case will 
give a waist length of 15 inches. If the height is 5 feet 6, the waist length will, be i^j4 
inches. The height being 5 feet 8 inches, the length then is 16 inches. For 5 feet 10, the 
waist length will be 16^,' and for 6 feet, it will be 17 inches. 

Having the lengths for an}- height, we can understandingly and safely deviate one or two 
sizes for stooping or erect forms, as the case mav require. 

Continue the subdivisions by first squaring from F to obtain N. N to L is the same as 
N to F. Pivot at I and sweep from L to obtain H, which is at the center of the back-sc^-e. 
H to S is one-half of the width of the armhole as explained for Figure i, i ^^ inch for a 32 
breast, 2 '., inches for a 36, and 2 fs inches for a 40. B}- measuring from F to S we have 8}^, 
inches for a 36 breast. As, however, the form in most cases curves above the arm, we increase 
this length in ever}' case '2 inch, which gives the length from socket-bone to bottom of arm- 
hole and to the natural waist as found in the tables. 

The application of the lengths and widths to the draft for regular and for disproportion- 
ate forms will be explained further on, when the method of drafting is taken up. 

But in order to save all calculation and to have a guide for ready reference, I append a 
table of proportionate lengths and widths for use, which can be referred to at any time when 
needed. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



'3 




FIGURE 2. 



14 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THE TABLE OF PROPORTIONATE MEASURES. 

'X'HE proportions of lengths to height, and of widths to breast sizes, var_v in different local- 
ities. Those which are right for one section or locality may not be for another. Those 
given in the accompanying table will be found well adapted to general purposes. They are 
given as a basis for the production of proportionate patterns and as a guide to correct 
measurements. 

The student should become familiar with the several lengths and widths for the different 
sizes. The knowledge thus gained will serve as a guard against wrong measurements. 

The measures for a man of any breast size, and whose height is proportionate to his 
breast, will not differ materially from those given on the table unless he differs in develop- 
ment from the average form. For one who is over-erect, the back depth, blade and back waist 
will be less and the front depth jiioir than as on the table. For one who is stooping shouldered 
the blade and back depth will be jiiorc and the front depth less than on the table. For one 
who has high shoulders the front and back depths will both be less^ and for one with low 
shoulders more than on the table. No matter what the variation may be from a normal form, 
either in height, attitude or development, the table is the basis from which the changes which 
ma}- be necessarv are made, as is more fully explained hereafter. 

In the first column of figures at the left of the table are the heights in inches, ranging 
from 64. to 74. In the next column, are the breast sizes appropriate for the heights opposite, 
when the breast size is in proportion to height. Then follows the waist, seat, underarm and 
sleeve lengths, back depth, length to natural waist, etc. 

The cutter is sometimes required to cut from a few fundamental measures, as height, 
breast, waist, seat. These may be taken by him or they may be sent to him from some other 
locality. Without the proper knowledge of good, safe proportions, he would not be able to 
meet such requirements. Extensive businesses are confined exclusivel}' to the making of 
custom clothing from measures furnished by the buyers or selling agents, with very 
little and often no experience in taking measures. Experience has demonstrated that a busi- 
ness of this character can be conducted with a smaller per cent, of misfits and at less cost for 
alterations than under the conditions which too often govern in custom cutting. The tables 
furnish the data by the aid of which the cutter can meet such requirements. They furnish 
a safe basis from which he can produce suitable patterns for either proportionate or dispro- 
portionate forms ; also block-patterns, which he will find to be of great service and almost a 
daily necessity in a business of much mafjnitude. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONATE MEASURES. 



H 
X 

iij 

X 


< 

a 

aa 


1 


< 


< 



Lh 

< 

z 


w 
J5 


a 

H 
U 

Q 
u: 
u 
< 


< 

< 

a 

< 
z; 


w 

Q 
< 

m 


X 
H 

0. 

u 
Q 
H 
Z 




as 

u 
Q 
_! 



.^ 
OS 

w 

6 


< 


< 
CO 



< 
m 

b 


u 

u 

2; 




S 


z 




Q 
Z 

<: 
I 

< 
w 

u 
u 


g 
w 

< 

w 

u 

u 
J 

[/5 


I 


2 


3 


4 


5 


6 


7 


8 9 


10 


II 12 


13 


14 


15 


16 


17 


18 19 


64 
65 

66 


32 
33 
34 


28 
29 
30 


33 
34 

35 


7K 


i7>-4 
1734 
18 


8M 

8-? 8 

8>^ 


i5>^' 
i5.h' 
16 


10 


I I 

II3< 
II>^ 


i5>^ 
1 5 "-'8 


63/ 

7 
VA 


65/i 

6% 

6 7/8 


I5X 
15^ 

16 


20 

20>^ 
21 


1334 
I4X 
143/ 


12 

12J4: 

123/ 


113/ 
12 


14 

I4>^ 

15 


67. 
68 
69 
70 


35 
3^^ 
37 
38 


31 
32 
33 
34 


36 
37 
38 
39 


7?'8 

7^/4 

7,^8 

8 


i8>4' 
19 

I9J'2 


85/8 

8M 
87/8 
9 


i6:5< 

i6>^ 
17 


1034 

II 

IIX 
II>^ 


11^ 
I2>^ 

I2.)'8 
12% 


16/8 
17 

>7->^ 
17/8 


■1% 
73/ 
8 

8;5< 


7 

7/8 

7/ 


i6>^ 
17 

17:!^ 
18 


2I>^ 
22 

22>^ 
23 


15 

I5J^ 

16 

i6X 


I3K 
I3>^ 
I3M 
I4K 


12/ 

J2M 

12% 

13 


15H 

16 

17 


71 
72 

73 
74 


39 
40 

41 
42 


35>^ 
37 

38 >^ 
40 


40; 2 
42 
43 
44 


8^ 

848 

8>4 


I9f4 

20 

20 >4 
20 K 


9>'S 
93^ 
9-V8 
9>^ 


•7X 
i7>^ 
173/ 
18 


1 1 34 

12 
I2X 

I2>4 


13 

i3-y8 
135/8 
14 


18 

l8?/8 
185/8 

19 


8/8 

9 

9/8 
9^ 


VA 
7/8 


i8>^ 
19 

I9->8 

1914 


23>^ 
24 
24 >^ 
25 


163/ 

17X 
i7>^ 
18 


i4>^ 

15 

i5;5< 

15/ 


I3X 

i3>^ 
14^ 


17^ 
18 

18% 
i8>^ 




43 
44 
45 
46 


41 45 

42 1 46 

43 ' 47 

44 1 48 


85,8 

8|4 

8Z-8 

9 


21 

2I>^ 
2 1 14 


9? 8 

93^ 

9"/8 

10 


18^ 
I8J4 
■834 
•9 


123^ 

13 

13^ 

13/2 


14K 
•14^8 
14.^ 

15^" 


19 a 8 
'95/ 
20 

20-' 8 


10 
loX 

1034; 


8 

8/ 

8^ 

8 3,8 


20l/^ 
20 >^ 
20 J/^ 
2IJ< 


25>^ 

26 
26 J^ 

27 


18^ 
1834 

^9A 
19% 


16 

16X 
i6>^ 
17 


14^4 
15^ 
15;^ 
1534 


18% 
19 

19^ 
i9>^ 




47 
48 


45 
46' 


49 
50 


9V8 
9^ 


22 

22j^ 




19^ 
^9% 


133/ 
14 


15/^ 

I5"/8 


20f^ 
21 


II 

IIK 


8/2 


21^ 
22 


27A 
28 


20 
20 J^ 


•7K 
■i7>^ 


16 
16X 


193/ 
20 



1 6 THE 'KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 

HOW TO USE THE TABLES FOR PROPORTIONATE FORMS. 

Taking Hkioht, Breast, Waist and Skat MKAsrRF:s Oxlv. 

"DY A PROPORTIONATE form it must be understood that it is meant one whose height, 
breast, waist and seat are very nearh' the same as given on the table for an}- of the 

various breast sizes. Tlie attitude, size of blade and slope of shoulder is the same as for an 

average form. 

We wish to know what measures to use when drafting a coat for a man say 38 breast 

and of proportionate height, 70 inches. 

Bv referring to the table we find the measures as follows : 

38 breast. | 39 seat. I 9 back depth. I 11 '2 blade. 

34 waist. I i9i'2 sleeve. | 1 7 natural waist. | 1 2 3^. front depth. 

The table of " Lengths to Height " will furnish the length to the seat-line (mo.st promi- 
nent part) if drafting a sack coat, and the lengths to any part of the bodv bv which we can 
regulate the length for any stjde of coat according to style. 



HOW TO USE THE TABLES FOR DISPROPORTIONATE FORMS. 

Taking Height, Breast, Waist and Seat Measures Only. 

A DISPROPORTIONATE form is one which in some respect differs materially from the 

measurements as given on the tables. It ma}- be in height, waist, seat or in attitude, 

as for example, height 68 inches, breast 40, waist 39, seat 43. An observation of the shape 

may or ma}' not indicate that the shoiilders are more or less sloping, that the blades are more 

or less full, or that the attitude is different from an average or proportionate form. 

Take for example a form of the height and sizes given above, with blade, slope of shoul- 
der and attitude not noticeably different from the average form. 

In this case select from the table the sleeve length, natural waist, seat line and length 
of the coat from the row of figures in which 68 is found as the height. Then select the size 
of blade, back depth and front deptli from the row of figures in which 40 is given as the 
breast size. 

The measures to be used when drafting will then be as follows: 40 breast, 39 waist, 43 
seat, 1834 sleeve, 9^4 back depth, i6'2 natural waist, 243^ seat line (style length), 12 blade, 
133., front depth. 

Wlieu the shoulders arc hii^li, tlie liack and front depths are each s/iortriicd one or two 
degrees of '^ inch eacli as ma}- seem to be required. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 17 



When the shoulders are /(m\ then tlie back and front depths are each /ci/o/hriu-ct one or 
two degrees of '4 ineli each as nia}- seem to be rec|nircd. 

When the sht)ulders are h/o/i and iiioj-<- crctt tlian for the average form (as is often erro- 
neousl}' called "erect and square"), then two changes arc required as follows: The back 
and front depths are each sliortoicd one or two degrees as the case may demand, then the 
changed front depth is IcngtJteticd one or two degrees for erectness, and the changed back 
depfh shortened the same amount. 

When the shoulders are erect and /tra\ the back and front depths are each first leiii^t/i- 
ened one or two degrees for increased slope of shoulders. The changed front depth is then 
incirased and the back depth deereased^ each one or two degrees for erectness. 

When the shoulders are fiig/i and stooping, the back and front depths are first shortened 
one or two degrees for less slope of shoulder. The changed back depth is then lengthened 
and the front depth shortened each one or two degrees for stooping shoulders. 

When the shoulders are more sloping and stooping than for the average form, the back 
and front depths are each lengthened one or two degrees for sloping shoulders. The 
changed back depth is then lengthened and the front depth shortened each one or two degrees 
for stooping shoulders. 

For a form of any height or breast, if flatter or smaller through the shoulder blades 
than a normal form, reduce the blade size as given on the table one, two, or three degrees of 
I4. inch each as the case seems to require. If on the other hand the blades are fuller than 
for a normal form, increase the blade size one, two or three degrees. 

Let us now consider the changes that would be required for a man 70 inches in height, 
36 breast, 31 waist, 37 seat. An observation of his shape shows that he is, say one degree 
erect, shonlders one degree high, and across the blade tn'o degrees flat. 

To find the measures by which to draft, say a sack-coat for this man, proceed as follows: 

First write down the formula for a proportionate form of 36 breast as in the first row of 
figures below. Place under the proportionate height 68 inches, the customer's height 70 
inches, under the waist 32, place his waist size 31. Next consider the back depth. This 
must be treated on the basis of the proportionate height of 68 inches without regard to the 
height of the customer. His increase in height affects the lengths of the upper part of the 
bodv from collar seam to natural waist, and from under the arm to waist only, both of which 
will be longer than for a form of proportionate height and breast, providing of course that 
the slope of shoulders is as for the average form. So that, as the shoulders are one degree 
high, the front and back depths are each shortened '4 inch. This gives S'i' for the back, 
which place under 834, and ii/g for the front, which place under 12 's- 

He is also one degree erect, so the changed back depth must be shortened another '4 
inch. This gives 8^4, which place under 8^2 . The changed front depth must now be 
lerfgthened '4 inch for one degree erect. This gives 12 '^ again which is placed 
under 1 1 "s- 

Next find the length to the natural wai.st in the row of figures in which 70 inches is 
given on the table as height, which is 17, and place this under 16' 2. 

The full length and length of sleeve are also taken from the row of figures in which the 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



height 70 inches is found. (Get the full length from the table of LENGTHS To Height.) 
The sleeve length is 19^^/^ which is placed under 1834. 

As the blade is hvo degrees flaf, deduct ^i inch from the proportionate blade. This 
gives lo'^ which is placed under 11. 

It will be observed that, in this case, shortening the front depth 12 's ior one degree 
high s/ionlders, and then lengthening it for one degree erect, leaves this length as it was 
originally. The back depth has been shortened '.' inch ('4 inch for one degree high 
shoulders and Vj^ inch for one degree erect). 

68 36 32 37 i83^. • 8^ i6i/^ II 125^ 

70 31 T.<^Vi 8% 17 25 1 3 iQi^ 11% 

S]4 ■ 12^ 

The measures as used when drafting will then be as follows : 

36 breast, 31 waist, 37 seat, 19 Vj sleeve, 8I4 back depth, 17 natural waist, 25 'i .seat-line, 
say 29 length, 10 J/^ blade, I2j< front depth. 

Take another example. Height 72 inches, breast 3S, waist 35, seat 40, two degrees 
sloping shoulders, one degree stooping shoulders, and blades one degree full. 

First write down the measures for a proportionate form of 38 breast as given on the 
tables and as on the first row of figures below. 

Place the waist size required under 34 and the seat 40 under 39. 

Add '2 inch to the back and front depths for /wo degrees sloping. This gives 91^2 for 
the back depth, which place under 9, and 13% for the front depth, which place under 1234. 

Add "4 inch to the changed back depth for one degree stooping. This gives 93,4, which 
place under 95^, and deduct the same amount from the changed front depth for one degree 
stooping shoulders. This gives 13, which place under 13 '4. 

Add I4 inch to the blade for one degree f nil blades. This gives 11 34, which place 
under 1 1 ' 2 . 

Place under 17 the proportionate waist length for 72 inches height, viz., i7'2 inches. 
This is further increased '4 inch to 1734 for one degree stooping shoulders. 

The measures as used when drafting the coat will then be as given on the bottom row 
of figures. 

V l'^ 34 39 19'^ 9 17 11'^ '23^; 

72 35 40 20 91^ i7''2 26'4 30 113^ 13I4 

93/+ 17^4 13 

38 35 40 20 934: 1734 26 '2 3C> ii?4 13 

The fashionable waist is determined by style, usually about 2 inches below the natural 
waist. 

The full length is also determined by style. The various lengths to any part of the 
body can be found on the table of Lengths to Height. 

The sizes given on the table for neck are make-up sizes for coats which close at the neck. 
The sizes for thigh, knee and calf are anatomical. The sizes for sleeves at hand and elbow 
are make-up sizes, subject to changes in style. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



19 



M '|i|i|il i | i | 



mpp 



Wu 



mpp: 



Ui|i |i | i |i| i | 



mm 



mm 



mp 



THE DIVISIONS ON THE DRAFTING- 
SQUARE. 

TN all the following explanations, whenever the frac- 
tions 1/6, 14;, i^, i^, etc., are nsed, unless expressly 
stated otherwise, they are according to the several 
divisions of the half-breast, half-waist or half-seat, as 
found on the oi'dinary drafting-square. As for ex- 
ample, the distance between two given points may 
be '4 waist, the waist being 32 inches. Find half of 
32, which is 16, on the divisions of fourths. From 
this to the angle of the square is '4 waist or 4 inches 
for this size of waist. When it is said tliat from one 
point to another is one ///// foiDtli of the waist, the 
waist being 32 inches, then is meant one full fourth 
or 8 inches. 

Take a 36 breast, one full half breast is 18 inches. 
But I, breast is the quantity on the drafting-square 
between the angle and half of the breast 18, on the 
divisions of halves, viz., 9 inches. 



-dlL!i f , T , f i rfj i f i T , r i i,T , rJ i i i r , i , T , f , f ,i, h i, t iii hi , 7 ii, l^ , Tj,? ,i, ?Hj ,ti T i^ 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



TABLE OF LENGTHS TO HEIGHT. 

(~\^ this table are given the lengths from the collar seam to different parts of the body for 
^^^ forms ranging from 5 feet 4 to 6 feet 4 inches in height. 

In the first column of figui'es at the left of the table are the several heights in inches. 

In the next colnmn are the lengths to natural waist, then to seat line (most prominent 
part of seat) to center of body, fork, bottom of seat, center of thigh, top of knee, bottom of 
knee, center of calf, bottom of calf, ankle, sole of foot, etc. 

The style length, say for a sack coat, may be i inch below the bottom of seat. This the 
table gives for a man 70 inches in height as 2g% inches, and for one 66 inches in height 
28 inches. In this manner the length can be readily and uniformly ascertained for any kind 
of coat. 

The outside .seam for trousers is ascertained by deducting the length to natural waist 
from that to the sole of foot. 

The inside seam length is found by deducting the length to the fork from that to the 
sole of foot. 

The proper front lengths for vests are given in the last column. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



TABLE OF LENGTHS TO HEIGHT. 











V[<o^ 


COLLAR SEAM. 










•JO 

s 




tr. 


X ■ 

H 
X 




























w '^ 




2 










<: 


X 


a 




M 
U 

z 


Is. 

J 
< 


< 




H 


Bi 

H 

OS 


1 i 




< 


w 
z 


e 





C/5 




H 




z 





u 

Cl. 



u 






u. 





I FOR 
GTHS 




< 


J 


S 









(I. 


d 


a 





u 


'A 





i § 


• 


S 


H 


H 


« 


h< 


H 





H 


H 


H 


-J 


UJ 


U 


•JQ -1 


H 


H 


<; 


Z 


« 


H 


Z 




i- 


Z 


H 


^ 


J 


Q 




X 


< 


u 


w 








M 








M 





z 







W H 





2 


t/5 


u 


fc 


K 





H 


eq 


U 


m 


< 


If) 


X 


- 6 


M 






































;:, 


z =^ 


X 


h 


E- 


H 


H 


H 


H 


H 


H 


H 


H 


H 


H 





5 u. 


I 


2 


3 


4 


5 


6 


7 


8 


9 


10 


II 


12 


13 


14 


15 16 


64 


15/^ 


22% 


23M 


25 


26 


32 


37^ 


40 


44 K 


48 


53X 


55 ?4 


40 K 


3°M 


2334 


65 


15% 


23^ 


24 


25^ 


26>^ 


32j^ 


38 


40>^ 


45^ 


48^ 


54 


56>^ 


41 


3>^ 


24 


66 


16 


23M 


243^ 


25K 


27 


33 


38^ 


41^ 


46 


49 >^ 


55 


57>^ 


4i>^ 


31 M 


24 J^ 


67 


I6;5< 


24X 


24M 


26 


273< 


33 >^ 


39 


42 


46^ 


50K 


55^ 


58^ 


42 


32;^ 


243/c 


68 


i6>^ 


243^ 


25^ 


26>^ 


27>^ 


34 


39 >^ 


42/2 


47^ 


51 


56^ 


59^ 


42^ 


3234 25 14: 


69 


i6?<^ 


25 


25 >^ 


26^ 


27 M 


34 >^ 


40^ 


43^ 


48 


51^ 


57>^ 


60 


43^ 


33^ 25>^ 


70 


17 


25'A 


26 


27 J^ 


28^ 


35 


40 M 


43 ?4 


48^ 


52>^ 


58^ 


61 


44 


Zl% 


26 


71 


17^ 


26 


26X 


27>^ 


28^ 


35>^ 


41X 


44 >^ 


49K 


53 K 


593< 


62 


44>^ 


34^ 


26j4' 


72 


i7>^ 


26 J^ 


2634 


28 


29 


36 


4"^ 


45 


50 


54 


60 


62% 


45 K 


3434 


26^ 


73 


•714 


26>^ 


27 


28X 


?9>^ 


36 >^ 


42^ 


45H 


5°H 


54^ 


61 


63 >^ 


46 


35^ 


27 


74 


18 


26M 


27>^ 


28^ 


29M 


37 


42^ 


46X 


5^H 


55>^ 


62 


H'A 


46>^ 


353^ 


27>< 


75 


18^ 


27 


27^ 


29 


30j< 


37 >^ 


43^ 


47 


52 


56^ 


62>^ 


65^ 


47 


36K 


27^ 


76 


i8>^ 


27>^ 


28X 


29>^ 


3o>^ 


38 


44 


47>^ 


5234 


57 


^sH 


66;^ 


47 H 


36^ 


28^ 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK-COAT BODY. 

Diagram i. 

WE shall begin to show the system of drafting by taking a size of 36 breast, 32 waist. 
The lengths we shall take from the tables for 36 breast, as the height of the form 
to be fitted, viz., 5 feet 8 inches, is proportionate to the breast, and as there are no 
peculiarities of shape noticeable differing from the average or normal form. The measures 
by which to draft are, we find, as follows : 

36 breast, 32 waist, 1854; sleeve, SS/^ back depth, ]6'2 natural waist, 11 blade, 12^ 

front depth. 

To Draft. 

Square the lines A E -and A 19. 

Place the end of the drafting-square j^ inch below A and mark the back depth at B 
8.34; inches, the natural waist at D 16% inches, and the fashionable waist at E according to 
style, 2 inches for this draft below D. 

B to C is one-half of the back depth, 4^5 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D and E- 

E to F is i'2 inch. Square down from F. 

Shape the center-back-seam from A through F as represented. 

A to G is i/^ breast, 3 inches. Square up from G. 

G to H is ^'t breast, 3,^ inch. 

B to K is the blade, 1 1 inches. vSquare down from K. 

K to L is I inch and L to M is li inch. Square up from M. 

M to P is ^ inch less than % breast, 2% inches. Square up from P. 

B to Q is one-half of full breast, 18 inches. 

to R is 2 ^4 inches. Square down from R. 

R to 2 is 1 1 8 inch when the edges are to be stitched, and I4 inch less when bound. 

1 is half-way from B to M. 

I to J is lyi inch. Square up from J. 

N is half-way from J to K. Square down from N to establish i. 

Connect H and P. 

Connect 19 and the bottom of the center-back-seam opposite E to establish 20. 

Z to 5 is I inch, or to style. 

Establish 4, ^4 inch more or less according to style, forward of the line from J to 19, 
and shape the back scye as represented. 

F to T is i'8 breast, 2i/( inches, or to style. 

Shape the back from 5 through 20 and T as represented. 

For each inch that the waist is smaller than the breast, '4 inch is taken out between 7 
and 8. This gives i inch in this case, which is distributed on each side of i as represented. 

When Ihe blade is propflrtioiialr to tlir breast, S to \' is '4 inch more than '> waist, 8 '4 
inches in this case. lVhe)i tlie blade is disproportionate to the breast, \ is established as 
explained for Diagrams 4, 5 and 34. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



23 



Y to W is 2 I4 inches. 
W to 3 is the same as R to 2. 

F to T, V to 8 aud 7 to 6 is i, of full waist, 16 inches. 

Shape the sidebody from '4 inch forward of 5 throiii;-h 6, taking out '4 inch opposite 20 
as represented. 

Shape the scye through K to the front of scye line above M as represented. 
Shape the underarm seam from N through 7 and 8 as represented. 
From 20 to 9 is ^4- i^^^h more than from 20 to the fashionable waist line below T. 
Point 10 is '4 inch above the fashionable waist line. 



©€)--®---(^ 

2 R Q P M 



3 W 



V 




24 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



SINGLE-BREASTED FROCK-COAT BODY. 

( Concluded. ) 
Diagram 2. 

T TO 13 is 3^ inch more than the front depth, less the width of the toj^ of the back from A 

to H. Lay the drafting-square as represented — the width from A to H is placed below L, 
and the drafting-square touches the line squared up from P at ^ inch more than the front 
depth, \%~/% inches. This establishes 13. 

Connect 13 and C. 

From 13 to 4 is the same as H to 4 on the back. 

From 4 to 16 is }/^ inch. Shape the seam from 13 to 16 and the scye below 16 as rep- 
resented. 

Square forward from 13. 

From 13 to 14 is % breast, 3 inches. 

Connect 14 and R. 

From 14 to 15 is J/g breast, 3 inches. 

In this case the gorge is shaped from 13 passing ^2 inch above 15. It may be shaped 
as represented or through or below 15 according to style. 

Shape the front edge through 2 and 3. 

Establish the end of the roll according to style, and draw the crease-line towards a point 
I inch from the side of the neck. This establishes 22. 

Point 12 is 1 1 2 inch below the fashionable waist line. 

Connect 11 and 12 by a straight line and shape the waist seam from 11 by a graceful 
reverse-curved line through 12 to 21 as represented. 

Point 25 is directly below M. 

Connect 25 and P and shape the fish, making it S inch wide on the waist line as rep- 
resented. 

The button line is i ' < inch backward from the front edge. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



25 




21 12 



DIAGRAM 2. 



26 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THREE-BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK-COAT BODY. 

Diagram 3. 

'T^HE accompanjang diagram is for a man 5 feet 9 inches in height, 40 breast, 39 waist 
and 42 seat. The shoulders are one degree high and stooping. 
First select the lengths and widths from the tables for a proportionate form of 40 
breast. These are given on the first row of figures below, the first being the height, ivext 
breast, then waist, seat, sleeve, back depth, natural waist, blade and front depth. 

72 40 37 42 20 9I4 1713 12 13^ 

69 40 39 42 19 9 1634 131^ 

On the second row of figures is placed the height, breast, waist and seat sizes of the form 
to be fitted, as 69, 40, 39, 42. 

As the shoulders are our degree high, the back and front depths are each shortened '4 
inch. This gives 9, which place under 9'4, and 13/s, which place under 13^5- 

As the shoulders are also one degree stooping, the changed back depth is lengthened V^ 
inch, and the changed front depth is shortened '4 inch. This gives 9 '4^, which place iinder 
9, and 1 2 7^8, which place under 135/^. 

The length to natural waist is the same as for a man 5 feet 9 inches in height, viz., 16^4, 
except that it is increased '4 inch for one degree stooping shoulders. This gives 17, which 
is placed under 1634. The sleeve length for a man 5 feet 9 inches in height is 19 inches, 
which place under 20. 

The measures, then, as used when drafting, are : 



40 breast. I 42 seat. 
39 waist. I 19 sleeve. 



9 14' back depth. I 12 blade. 

17 natural waist. • | 12 7^ front depth. 

19 fashionable waist. 

To Draft. 



All the points excepting 6, 8, 12, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, U, V and W, are obtained in the 
same manner as explained for Diagrams i and 2. 

As the waist is i inch smaller than the breast, '4 inch onl}- is taken out on the waist 
line from i to 8. 

When the blade is proportionate to the breast, as in this case, S- to U is '.j^ inch more 
than \2 of a waist 4 inches smaller than the breast. From S to U is, therefore, in this case, 
'4 inch more than '2 of 36 waist, 9 '4 inches. 

In this case the waist (39) is 3 inches larger than for a form with waist 4 inches smaller 
than breast, which would be 36, and one-third of this, or i inch, is placed forward of U as 
from U to \'. 

V to W is 2' 8 inches when the waist is 3 inches smaller than the breast, 2 inches 
when the wai.st is 2 inches smaller than the breast, i ~'s inch when the waist is i inch smaller 
than the breast, as in this case, and 13,4 inch when the waist is as large or larger than the 
breast. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



27 



F to T, \' to 8 and i to 6 is one-half of full waist, 19'. inches. 

Point 1 2 is I ■ 2 inch below the fashionable waist. 

Connect 1 1 and 12 by a straight line and square by this line towards Q to establish 25. 

Shape the seam edge from 11 through 12 towards 21 as represented. 

The dart from 25 to 26 is tV inch wide for each inch of corpulency, which for this form 
as above explained, is 3 inches, so that from 25 to 26 is tV inch. 

From 26 to 28 is the same as from 26 to the top of the dart. 

From 28 to 29 is the same as 25 to 26. 

Shape the waist seam from 26 through 29 to 30 as represented. 

The shape of the front below 2 is governed by taste or style. 

When cutting out the pattern for the forepart cut the waist seam first on the line from 
1 1 through 25 to 21. Then after the skirt has been drafted, cut off from 26 to 30. 



14® ^f3. 




DIAGRAM 3. 



28 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



SINGLE-BREASTED ONE- AND THREE-BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK BODY. 

Diagram 4. 

'npHE accompanying diagram is for a man 5 feet 9 inches in height, 42 breast, 44 waist 
and 45 seat. The shoulders are stooping and blades full, each two degrees. 
Select the lengths and widths from the tables for a form of 42 breast as arranged on the 
first row of figures following : 

74 42 40 44 20-^4; 95^ 18 I2>^ 14 

69 42 44 45 19 10 16^ 13 13!/^ 

Under these are placed the height, breast, waist and seat of the form to be fitted, as 6g, 
42, 44 and 45. 

As the shoulders are two degrees stooping, the back depth is increased \i inch, which 
gives 10. This is placed under gij. The front depth is shortened '2 inch. This gives 
13I2, which is placed under 14. 

The sleeve length for 69 inches height, 19, is placed under 20i^. 

Place 13 under i2'2 for blades two degrees full. 

The natural waist for 69 inches height, i63^;, is placed under 18. This must, however, 
be increased }4 inch for two degrees stooping shoulders. This gives 17 '4 which is placed 
under 16 3;^. 

Particular and careful examination of the build must be made to determine au}' increase 
in the blade quantity. It must not be understood that it is always increased for forms with 
stooping shoulders, because a person is frequently round and stooping shouldered, but no 
larger through the blades than an average or normal form. The round appearance being 
due to extreme inward curvature at the back waist, and head carried well forward. 

When the blades are extra full, the chest must be extra flat. 

The measures then, as used when drafting, are as follows : 



42 breast. 

44 waist. 

45 seat. 
19 sleeve. 



13 1 2 front depth. 
To Draft. 



10 back depth. 
17^ natural waist. 
1914^ fashionable waist. 
13 blade. 



For two degrees stooping shoulders the center-back-seam is advanced ^s inch forward of 
A, and more is taken out between the back and sidebody at 5, as represented. 

All the remaining points, excepting as herein explained, are obtained in the .same man- 
ner as explained for Diagrams i and 2. 

As the waist is larger than the breast there is nothing taken out between the forepart 
and sidebodv at i. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



29 




DIAGRAM 4. 



30 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



Whenever the blade size used is /rss than as for an average form as found on the table 
for a corresponding breast size, the star is established the same amount /orzaa rd of S. 

Whenever the blade size used is >nore than as found on the table for a corresponding 
breast size, then the star is established the same amount hackivard of S. 

In this case the blade size used is % inch more than as on the table for 42 breast. The 
star is therefore placed ^ inch backward of S. 

The star now takes the place of S when establishing the remaining points on the waist 
line. 

When the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than the breast, and the blade is larger or 
smaller than as for an average form as found on the table, then from the star to V is J^^ inch 
more than Yz waist. See Diagrams 5 and 34. 

W^hen the waist is less than 4 inches smaller than the breast, as in this case, and the 
blade is larger or smaller than as found on the table, then from the star to U is V^ inch 
more than ^i of a waist, 4 inches smaller than the breast, irrespective of the size of the 
waist of the form to be fitted. 

In this case, the breast being 42, a waist 4 inches smaller is 38, and '4 inch more than 
Yz of 38 (19 on the divisions of halves), is gj^ inches. From the star to U is therefore 93^ 
inches. 

Point V is now established as follows : 

Point U has been established as for a man with 38 waist, or 4 inches less than breast. 
The form to be fitted is 44 waist, which is 6 inches more than 38. One-third of this, or 
2 inches is now placed forward of U which gives V. 

V to W is as explained for Diagram 3, i3/^ inch for this draft. 

F to T and V to 6 is Y^ of the full waist, 22 inches. 

The waist seam is drafted in the same manner as explained for Diagram 3. 

The amount of corpulenc}' being 6 inches, the dart is 6-16 or 3g inch wide. 

The front edge of the one-buttoner is shown in a heavy line through W and passing '^/^ 
inch forward of 2. 

The front edge for a three-button cutaway frock is also shown in a light solid line from 
the end of the roll to 3. This, however, is a style of front which should not be encouraged for 
corpulent forms unless made with stationary short roll. When made soft roll the edge 
should be shaped in good form from the point of the rever to 3, and the two upper but- 
tons should be placed as much back of the usual position as the edge has been shaped 
forward of 2. 

The edge of the one-buttoner is also drawn Y inch forward of 2. 



32 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK-COAT BODY. 



Diagram 5. 

I 'HE accompanying diagram is for a man 5 feet 10 inches in height, breast 38 and waist 
34. He is over-erect, has small blades and low shoulders, each two degrees. 

The lengths and widths are first selected from the tables for a man of 38 breast, 
which is proportionate to the height, 5 feet 10 inches, as arranged on the first row of figures 
below. 

The back depth is shortened '2 inch, the front depth lengthened '2 inch and the blade 
reduced ' 2 inch for over-erectness and small blades, as on the second row. 

The changed back and front depths are then lengthened each ' 2 inch for low shoulders 
as on the third row. 

(When the blades are small or flat, the chest must be correspondingly full.) 



70 



3S 



34 



39 



i9>^ 



The measures then, as used when drafting, are: 

38 breast. 
34 waist. 



39 seat. 



19I2 sleeve, 
9 back depth. 
17 natural waist. 



17 1 1 '2 12^4; 

II 13k 



19 fashionable waist. 

1 1 blade. 

13^4 front depth. 



To Draft. 



All the points, excepting the star R and W, are obtained in the same manner as 
explained for Diagrams i and 2. 

The star is established ' 2 inch forward of S, because the blade size used is that amount 
less than as given on the tables for a man of 38 breast as explained for Diagram 4. 

As the waist is 4 inches smaller than the breast, i inch is taken out between 7 and 8. 
From the star to V is % inch more than j4 waist. 

F to T, Y to 8 and 7 to 6 is ^4 of the full waist. 

Q to R is 2^4 inches. 

V to W is 2^2 inches. 

From Q to R and V to W are each '4 inch more than as for the preceding diagrams, 
because of the lapel seam for which this allowance is made. 

For corpulent or stout forms see Diagram 6. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



33 




21 12 



DIAGRAM 5. 



34 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



T 



DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK-COAT BODY. 

Diagram 6. 
HE accompanying diagram is for a man 5 feet 10 inches in height, 48 breast and 48 

waist. The shoulders are one degree high and two degrees stooping. 
First find the lengths and widths on the tables for a proportionate form of 48 breast- 
These are as on the first row of figures below. 

The back and front depths are first each shortened i^ inch for one degree high shoul- 
ders. This gives 10, which is placed under loj/^, and 155^, which is placed under 157^. 

The changed back depth is then lengthened '2 inch and the front depth shortened the 
same amount for two degrees stooping shoulders. This gives ioi/<, which is placed under 
10, and i5/'8, which is placed xinder 15%. 

The sleeve and natural waist lengths are found on the row of figures on which 70 is 
given as height. This gives 19^ for the sleeve and 17 for natural waist. The latter is, 
however, increased 'i inch for two degrees stooping shoulders. 

48 46 22 14 10% 191^ 14 15 Js 

48 ig'j 10 ij}4 15H 

ioi< 15^ 



The measures as used when drafting will then be as follows : 



48 brea,st. 
48 waist. 
195^2 sleeve. 



io}4 back depth. 
171^ natural waist. 
1 9 1-2 fashionable waist. 

To Draft. 



14 blade. 

15^8 front depth. 



All the points excepting 6, R, U, V and W are obtained in the same manner as 
explained for Diagrams i and 2. 

As the waist is as large as the breast there is nothing taken out on the waist line at i. 

S to U and U to V are each the same as explained for Diagram 3. 

Q to R is 2^4- inches. 

VtoW is 2^ inches when the waist is 3 inches smaller than the breast, 2 ^^ inches when 
the waist is 2 inches smaller than the breast, 2V8 inches when the waist is i inch smaller 
than the breast, and 2 inches when the waist is as large or larger than the breast, 2 inches 
for this draft. 

F to T and V to 6 is one-half of full waist, 24 inches. 

Point 12 is i}4 inch below the fashionable waist. 

Shape the waist seam and the dart in the same manner as explained for Diagram 3. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



35 




-4)-"' 

12 



DIAGRAM 6. 



36 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



DRESS-COAT BODY. 

Diagram 7. 

npHE accompanying diagram is for a regnlar form 5 feet 9 inches in height, 37 breast and 
33 waist. 
The measures used when drafting are the same as found on the table for 37 breast, which 
are as follows : 

37 breast. I 19 sleeve. I 1634! natural waist. [ iii:j; blade. 

33 waist. I 8 ?s back depth. | 1834^ fashionable waist. | 12 ^s front depth. 

To Draft. 

All the points excepting R and VV are obtained in the same manner as explained for 
Diagrams i and 2. 

Q to R is 2}'^ inches. 

V to W is I inch. 

Shape the lapel and gorge to style. (See Diagrams 20 and 21.) 

This coat is not intended to button, the front edges of the lapels meeting at the waist. 
For a form with a small waist the lapel seam ma}- be shaped % or ^4 inch flatter at R, and 
for corpulent forms somewhat forward of R, in each case according to the st3-le effect desired 
for the roll, whether narrow or wide. 

For corpulent forms the distribution of the waist size will be obtained in the same manner 
as explained for Diagram 3, excepting the quantity between V and W, which is 1^2 inch in 
each case less than as explained for Diagram 6. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



37 




DIAGRAM 7 



38 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



FROCK-COAT BACKS COMPLETED. 

Diagram 8. 

'npHE regular back is drafted as represented, except when the material is of a decided stripe 
or plaid. 

To complete the back proceed as follows : 

From the fashionable waist F to E is i% inch. Draw a straight line from A through E- 

A to G is H inch more than the length. Sqiiare across from G. 

J to K is the same as F to H. 

Curve slightly from H to K and add i inch on each side at F and H, extending from I4 
inch above F and H as represented. 

For forms with flat seats and less erect than the average, extend the line A E (Diagram i ) 
to the bottom, add j4 inch back of E. Shape the edge of the back skirt below E parallel 
with the line A E. (Diagram i.) 

Diagram 9. 

For stripes and plaids of pronounced patterns, the back is first drafted in all respects 
the same as explained for Diagram 8. 

Continue the line A F to establish L. 

L to M is the same as J to K. 

Reshape the back skirt from F and H to L and M. 

The top of the side plait should be raised about '2 inch above H, and the bottom ^/^ 
inch above M. 

When making up, the center-back-seam must be well shrunk at the natural waist, and 
the side seam stretched directly opposite until the edge of the back skirt below F ranges 
with the line F J. 

WHOLE BACKS. 

Diagram 10. 

/^N this diagram is represented one style of whole back. It is drafted in the same 
manner as the one represented on Diagram 9, except that the lap on the center-of- 
back skirt is omitted. 

An extra piece, represented by the part which is shaded, extends from the right side i 
inch or more beyond the center, and is fastened at the button and by a tack at the center 
of back. One side edge is left free. 

When marking on the material the center of back is laid to overlap the fold or crease 
edge 54 inch from the top to the bottom. 

The material must be well shrunk on the fold at the natural waist, and stretched on the 
sides directly opposite, until the edge of the back skirt when on the double, ranges with the 
line as from F to J on Diagram 9. 

( Contnntcd on page ./o. ) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



39 




K J 

DIAGRAM 8. 



M K L J 
DIAGRAM 9, 



DIAGRAM 10. 



40 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



WHOLE BACKS. 

( Concluded. ) 

Diagram ii. 

This diagram represents the material opened out face up. The back is first cut on a 
fold or crease-edge as Diagram 9, defined by F, H, L, M and all above. The right side is 
then cut oi? from \^ inch below H to within i inch of the center and down to the bottom. 

Diagram 12. 

The shaded part represents another piece which is cut b}' the pattern of the back skirt 
with I inch added for the tack. The top is cut '4. inch above F and H. 

Diagram 13. 

On this diagram the piece (Diagram 12) is shown attached to the back skirt (Diagram 
ri). It is seamed to the back from the button to the tack, passing under the left back skirt 
It ma}' however, be stoated to the back, in which case the top should be cut off on the line 
FH. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



41 




DIAGRA.IVI II. DIAGRAM 12. DIAGRAM 13. 



42 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



CUTAWAY SKIRT. 

Regular Form. 

Diagram 14. 

COUARE the lines 2 to 3 and 2 to 8. 

Lav the lower point of the back seam of the sidebody at 2 and the side seam on the 
line from 2 to 3 as represented. Mark along the bottom of the sidebod}'. 

Lay the forepart with the bottom of the side seam touching 4 and the fashionable waist 
line directly over the line from 2 to 3. Mark along the bottom from 4 to 5. 

Half-way from 2 to 5 establish 6. 

From 5 to 7 is Yz inch. 

Shape the top of the skirt from 2 to 7 as represented. 

From 2 to 8 is 9 inches. Square back from 8. 

From 8 to 9 is lU inch. 

Draw a straight line from 2 through 9. 

From 9 to 10 is 18 inches. 

Shape the back edge from 2 passing Yz inch back of 9 through 10. 

From 2 to II is 14^ inch more than the length of the back skirt (H to K, Diagram 8). 

Shape the front from 7 to 1 1 according to style. 

Add I inch for the plait from 2 to 1 1 as represented. 

The distance from 8 to 9, viz., I'j inch, is as established for a regular form having 
a seat 5 inches larger than waist, the attitude of the form also being normal. Should the 
seat, however, be more than 5 inches larger than the waist, and the attitude normal, as 32 
waist, 38 seat, the distance from 8 to 9 must be increased '4 inch, or V^ inch for each inch 
that the difference between the waist and seat is more than 5 inches. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



43 




DIAGRAM 14. 



44 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



CUTAWAY SKIRT. 

Corpulent Form. 

Diagram 15. 

COUARE the lines 2 to 3 and 2 to 8. 

All the pomts except 7, 21 and B are obtained in the same manner as explained for 
Diagram 14. 

Point 21 is the same as on Diagram 3. 

From 21 to 7 is 'i inch. 

From S to 9 is i li inch as before. 

From 9 to B is as many fonrths of an inch as the seat is less than 5 inches larger than 
the waist. 

Take for example a form of 42 breast, 40 waist and 44 seat. The difference between 
the waist and seat is 4 inches, or i inch less than 5 inches, which is the diflference between 
these two sizes as established for a normal form, and upon which also the distance from 8 to 
9 has been established for the normal or regular form. From 9 to B is therefore in this 
instance '4 inch, and a line is drawn from 2 through B instead of. through 9. The back 
edge is shaped from 2 passing '3 inch back of B as represented. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



45 




DIAGRAM J5. 



46 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



FROCK-COAT SKIRT. 

Regular Form. 
Diagram i6. 

COUARE the lines 2 to 3 and 2 to 8. 

Lay the sidebody as represented and mark along the bottom from 2 to 4. 

Lay the forepart as represented. The fashionable waist line is directly over the line 
from 2 to 3. 

Mark along the bottom from 4 to 5. 

Lay the lapel as represented and mark from 5 to 6. 

Sqnare down from 6 by the fashionable waist line. 

From 2 to 8 is 9 inches. 

From 8 to 9 is i'^ inch. 

Draw a straight line from 2 through 9. 

From 2 to 10 is 18 inches. 

Shape the back edge from 2 through 10, passing 'i inch back of 9 and add i inch for 
the plait as represented. 

From 2 to II is y^ inch more than the length of the back skirt (H to K, Diagram 8). 

From 6 to 12 is % inch less than 2 to 11. 

This gives a close skirt. For one with extra drapery see Diagram 17. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



47 




DIAGRAM 16. 



-iS THE "KEYSTONE- 5VSTE>1S 



FROCK COAT SKIRT. EXTR.-. ZP.-^ZRY. 

rtaAGRAM 17. 

*^ . .-- : rtpin 1- 1 .ip-t. ire laid in the same manner as explained few the pre- 

ceding diagTaijLs ^ud bv marldng^ aLcHig^ the bottem edge <x. each from 2 thiongh 4 to 6. 

From 2 to S is 9 inches. 

From 8 Id 9 is i '« inch as b^oie. 

To obtain extra drapery proceed as follows : 

Point 7 is half-waj- between 2 and 6. 

From 7 to C is '4., '» inch or more according to the anxmnt of draperv required. In 
this case frx»m 7 to C is '»' inch. Shape the waist seam from 2 through C to 6 as represented. 

Square down fiom 6 towards D. 

From 6 to D is the same as 6 to C. 

Ffom 9 to B and from D to E are each tie ;.i~r as 7 to C. 

Draw a straight line from 6 through E. 

Draw a straight line from 2 through B. 

From 2 to 10 is 18 inches. 

Shape the beck-edge from 2 through ii- z^^::-^- '» inch back of B. and add i inch for 
the plait. 

From 2 to II is '4^ inch more than the back skfrt H :: K. Dis^-rsjs S*. 

From 6 to 12 is '3 inch less than 2 to 11. 

For a corpulent form the waist seam di the forepart should be shaped as explained fcr 
Diagram 3. 

The waist seam erf the skirt should be shaoed the same as the forepart as on the 'ine 
from 2 through 4. 7 and 5 to 6. 

From S to 9 is I *2 inch as beftne. 

The back-edge is then shaped as explained for Diagram 1 5. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



49 




DIAGRAM 17. 



50 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



DRESS-COAT SKIRT. 

Regular Form. 

DiA.GRAM iS. 

CQUARE the lines 2 to 3 and 2 to S. 

Obtain points 4, 5 and 21 as previously explained. 

From 21 to 6 is i inch. Shape the waist seam as represented. 

From 6 to 7 is 1 14 inch. Sliape the bottom of the strap from 7 parallel with the line 
from 21 to 5. 

From 7 to 12 is one-third of the width from 21 to 2. 

From 12 to 13 is I inch. 

From 2 to 8 is 9 inches. 

From 8 to 9 is I ^4 inch. 

Draw a straight line from 2 through 9. 

From 2 to 10 is 18 inches. 

Shape the back edge from 2 through 10, passing '2 inch back of 9, and add i inch for 
the plait, as represented. 

From 2 to 1 1 is '14. inch more than the length of the back skirt (H to K, Diagram 8). 

Pivot at 2 and sweep forward from 1 1 . 

From II to 14 is one-third of the width from 2 to 21. 

From 14 to 15 is I inch. 

Connect 13 and 15 by a slightlj- curved line and finish as represented. 

For corpulent forms the back edge ( 2 to 11 ) is obtained in the same manner as explained 
for Diagram 15. 

In case of small waist and large hips one or two darts are taken out on the waist seam 
to create the fullness required. Additional roundness is given to the back edge, which is 
pressed forward to a straight line, thus throwing the fullness over the largest part of the hip. 
The forepart should be laid •> inch forward of 4 when drafting the skirt. Thus '. inch 
e.Ktra fullness is gained on the seam edge which must be shrunk in at 4 or taken out in 
the dart. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 5' 




15 14 



DIAGRAM 18. 



52 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



FROCK-COAT LAPELS. 

Diagram 79. 

"PROM 2 to 3 is 1 3/^ inch, and 21 to 3 is the same as 21 to 2. 

Shape the seam edge for a long roll by a slight cnrve as represented. 

The lapel is 2 % inches wide at the top and bottom, and 3 inches opposite R. 

Should the coat be intended for buttoning up short roll, make the seam edge from 3 to 
21 straight. 

For coats which close to the throat, as coachmen's or police coats, the seam edge is drawn 
by a reversed curve from that shown on the diagram, about '2 inch back of a straight line 
drawn from 3 to 21. This shortens the outer edge, requires less drawing in, and takes more 
closely- the button-line on the forepart. 

The widths here given are average. The shape is governed by taste or st^de. 

A good plan is to cut out the lapel all except on the outer edge and across the top (which 
mark by a tracer), and lay it in a closed position with the forepart at 2 as represented by the 
shaded part. Then draw the crease-line from the end of the roll towards a point i inch from 
the side of the neck. 

To determine the shape of the roll and to know how much to add to or take off from the 
front to obtain the desired form, square back from 2 and 7 by the crease-line 4 to 22. By 
placing the amount from the crease-line to 2 and to 7 back of the crease-line we obtain points 
6 and 8, and it can readily be determined if the width is satisfactory. 

Should it be too wide, reduce the front at 7 or at 2. If too narrow, increase. 

If the height at 6 or at 8 is too low, increase, and if too high, reduce or lower. When- 
ever this is done, the same must efTect points 2 and 7. 



PEAKED LAPEL FOR DRESS-COAT. 

Diagram 20. 

'C'ROAI 2 to 3 is 2 to 2 I4 inches. Shape the seam edge by a slight curve as represented. 

The lapel is i3/^ inch wide at the top, iij inch at the bottom and 2i^ inches opposite R. 

From 21 to 9 is li inch less than the strap of the skirt (6 to 7, Diagram 18). 

Cut out the lapel except at the top, which mark by a tracer, and lay it in closed position 
with the forepart at 2 as represented by the shaded part. 

Square back by the crease-line from 2 and 7, and establish points 6 and 8. If not satis- 
factory, points 6 and 8 can be raised or lowered, or placed nearer to or further from the crease- 
line as desired. Any changes so made must effect the position of points 2 and 7. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



53 




DIAGRAM 19. 



DIAGRAM 20. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



DRESS-COAT LAPEL. SHAWL ROLL. 

Diagra:\i 2 1. 

[T is drafted in the same manner as the peaked lapel, except that at the top it is narrower 
and is cut off even with the gorge. The width 2 to 7 is governed by taste or style. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



55 




DIAGRAM 21. 



56 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 

COLLARS. 

Diagram 22. 
T7OR Single-Breasted Coats with Short or Medium Length of Roll. — Draw tlie 
crease-line from the end of the roll, as at X, towards a point i inch from the side of the 
neck, as at Y. This establishes 22. 

Draw the collar crease-line straight from 22, passing ^^ ingh back of Z. The length 
for all collars, 4 to 2, is the same as the width of the top of the back and length of gorge. 
From I to 2 is 1 14 inch, and i to 3 is I'i' inch. For coat ivitli long roll, draft as explained 
for Diagram 24. 

Diagram 23. 

For DoublE-Breasted Sack or Frock, Medium Roll. — These are drafted the same 
as explained for Diagram 22. 

Diagram 24. 

For all CoaTvS with Long Rolls. — Draw the crease-line and establish 22 as before. 
Draw the collar crease-line from 22 straight through Z. From i to 2 is i '^ inch. From 

1 to 3 is 1 1.^ inch, or to taste or style. Get the length 4 to 2, and finish as represented. 

Diagra:\i 25. 
The PrUvSSian Collar. — From Z to 2 is i inch. Shape the seam edge from i through 

2 by a strong curve and get the length to 3. From 3 to 4 is i ^4^ inch. From 4 to 5 is to 
taste or style. Finish as represented. 

Diagram 26. 

Half-Prussian Collar. — This collar is designed to roll short, or to' close at the throat 
as desired. Draw the crease-line from the end of the roll as before and establish 22. Curve 
the collar crease-line from 22, passing I4 inch back of Z. The seam edge is also curved to 
correspond with the crease edge. Get the length to 2, make the stand i y^^ inch from i to 2, 
and the leaf i to 3 to taste or style. Finish as represented. 

Diagram 27. 

SH.A.WL Collar. — Draw the crease-line from the end of the roll and establish 22 as 
before. Curve the collar crease-line strongly from 22, passing '4' inch back of Z, and the 
seam edge to correspond with the crease edge. Get the length 4 to 2. For a moderately 
wide collar, make the stand 1^4 inch from i to 2, but for a wide collar I'z or i^ inch wide. 
Round the seam edge a trifle above the end of the gorge, as to 4, and finish as represented. 

Diagram 28. 

Standing or Military Collar. — Draw the seam edge straight from the middle of the 
gorge towards 3, passing i inch below Z, and get the length from i to 3. The width from 

3 to 4 varies from i to i ' 2 inch. 

For men with short thick necks, make the stands for all collars ^4 to yi inch less in 
width than as above. The seam edges also should be shaped slightly concave, as on 
Diagram 26. This gives more length to the outer edge of the leaf. 

Whenever a coat is to be made soft roll, /.r., to roll either long or short, the collar should 
be cut as for short roll. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



57 




DIAGRAMS [22,123, 24, 25, .26, llls-ni 28. 



58 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THE SLEEVE. 

Diagram 29. 

"PIRST of all, we must take a careful and close measure of the scye of the pattern as 

drafted. The care which is to be taken consists in this, that no slip or slack may occur 
in using the tape-measure when going around the armhole. The size of the armhole can 
most conveniently be taken before the pattern of the coat has been cut out. 

When the measure is obtained, which we will suppose to be, say iS inches, proceed as 
follows : 

Square the lines O E and O M. 

O to A is one-fourth of the full scye, 4'^ inches. 

O to C is one-third of the full scye, 6 inches. 

B is half-way from A to C. 

C to E is the length. 

C to D is I inch less than half-way from C to E. 

Square across from A, B, C, D and E as represented. 

O to M is one-half of the full scye, 9 inches. 

Square down from M. This establishes H and P. 

H to J is one-fourth of the full scye, 4'^ inches. 

J to F is one-half of the full scye, 9 inches. 

K is half-way from F to J. Square down from K. 

K to L is one-eighth of the full scye, 2 '4 inches. 

Square up from L by the line O M to establish N. 

Pivot at L and sweep from N to J and N to F. This will in ever^- size reach both points, 
J and F. 

Commencing at B, curve through F, and inside of the sweep-line about l^ inch as 
represented. 

E to G is for a medium size sleeve, 6 inches. 

G to 3 is I '2 inch. 

Shape the back-arm seam from J to 3, passing ^/^ inch back of H and ^i inch back of 
P as represented. Of course the width of the sleeve at P and 3 may vary. 

D to R is 3^ inch for an average size. Shape the forearm seam from B through R to 
E as represented. 

On large sizes, saj- above 20, the upper round of the sleeve-head will be too large. This 
must in every case be measured before the pattern is cut out, and from F around the sleeve- 
head to J must be, and is, on all small or medium sizes, exactl}- one-half of the full scye and 
2 inches more for seams and fullness. 

On the under sleeve it is exactl\- one-half of the full scve from F around past 2 to S 
without any increase. 

( Continued on page 60. ) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



59 




DIAGRAM 29. 



6o THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THE SLEEVE. 

( Co)iti)nicd. ) 

Whenever on larger sizes it is found that by measuring from F over the round of the 
sleeve-head to J, there is more than one-half of the full scye and 2 inches extra, reduce to the 
size required as from J to 4, and reshape as represented by the dotted lines from N to 4 and 
4 to the elbow. 

Connect F and E. 

The line F E is the center-front line. 

The forearm seam of the upper sleeve is usually drawn below B. This increases the 
width of the upper sleeve the amount between F and A. We must, therefore, reduce the 
width of the under sleeve the same amount as from the center line F E to 5. 

Commencing then at F, shape the under-sleeve through 5 to within a seam's width of 
the line C H at 2, and up to S. It will be observed that this line runs about midway between 
K and L. 

J to S is one-eighth of the full scye, 2J4 inches. 

Shape the back-arm seam from a strong seam's width back of S through P to 3, and 
the forearm seam from 5 to E as represented. 



THE SLEEVE. 

{^Contiiiiicd.) 

Diagram 30. 

"WTHENEVER it is desirable to move the forearm seam more under the arm, the amount 
added to the width of the upper must be taken from the under-slee\e, always from the 
center line, F E. For example : we wish to transfer the seam i inch farther under the arm 
so that it will not show, or because a wide upper-sleeve and a narrow under will cut from the 
material to better advantage. 

B to U, E to Y, 5 to T and E to Z will then be each i inch (more or less as desired). 
Shape the forearm seam of the upper-sleeve from U to Y and the under-sleeve from T to Z, 
each parallel with the dotted center-front line F E as represented. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



6i 




DIAGRAM 30. 



62 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THE SLEEVE. 

[Concluded.) 

Diagram 31. 

TV7HEN the sleeve has been cut out, la}- it on the body pattern of the coat, which must lie 
as cut — that is, the breast line O P even across. 

Next place the sleeve on top so that point F (Diagram 30) will be close against the arm- 
hole and the line C H of the sleeve (Diagram 29) on the line O P. 

The sleeve, resting close against the armhole, nuist have the same curve in front and 
under the arm to the sidebody as the coat pattern. It may be that the armhole may not be 
exactly as good a shape as it should be. In such case modify it, but let both have the same 
curve. 

The distance from O to J is placed up from the breast line to wherever it reaches on the 
back scye and the notch fixed there, as at Y. 

About I to 1 1/4^ inch above the bottom of the armhole, as at U, notch both sleeve and 
forepart. 

Draw a line from J to Y. 

When the under-sleeve is laid in closed position with the upper-sleeve, it must fit the arm- 
hole to V, and point S should never be more than one-twelfth of the full sc3'e from Y. 

Square up from '4. inch forward of U to establish \V. This line will serve as a guide to 
determine if the round of the sleeve-head corresponds to that of the armhole. The distance 
from 4 to 3 should be the same as 4 to 2. If more, add at 3, and if less, take off. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



63 




DIAGRAM 31. 



64 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 

SINGLE-BREASTED SACK COAT. 

Regular Form. 

Diagram 32. 

npHE measures used for the accompanying diagram are for a proportionate form of 34 
breast as found on the table of proportionate measures, as follows : 
34 breast, 30 waist, 35 seat, 18 sleeve, 8j4 back depth, 16 natural waist, 2324; seat line, 
2Sj4 length, lo'^ blade, 11^ front depth. 

To Draft. 

Square the lines A 19 and A O. 

Place the end of the tape-measure yl inch below A and mark the back depth at B, 
natural waist at D, seat-line at E, and j^ inch more than the length at O. 

B to C is half of the back depth. Square the cross-lines from B, C, D, E and O. 

D to F is ^4^ inch. O to i is y^ inch. Curve the center-back-seam from A through F 
to I as represented. 

All the points on and above the breast-line, excepting 5 and N, are obtained in the same 
manner as explained for Diagrams i and 2. Connect C and M to establish 5. 

M to N is ^ inch less than half-way from M to J. 

Square down from I. This establishes T, X and Y. 

Shape the side back-seam from 5 through T as represented. 

When the blade is proportionate to the breast, as in this case, S to V is "4 inch more 
than ^2 waist, 7^ inches. 

F to T and V to 6 is % inch more than one-half of full waist, 15 '2 inches. (This ^i 
inch is taken out in the underarm-seam below N.) 

Square down from V to establish 8. 

E to X and 8 to 9 is one-half of the full seat, 1 7 ' 2 inches. 

Shape the seam from 5, taking out ^4 inch at J and passing i inch to i^i inch back 
of 6 (according to degree of shapeliness desired at the waist), and ^2 inch back of 9 as 
represented. 

V to W is 2^ inches. 

W to 3 is the same as R to 2. 

Square down from 3 to establish 10. 

Shape the bottom from the side seam towards a point '2 inch below 10. 

The front is shaped according to style. One style is represented by a heavy line, and 
another below 3 by the heavy broken line. 

M to II is 14^ breast. Square down from 11 for the end of the pocket opening. 

The fish under the arm is sometimes omitted. In such cases shape the side seam from 
a point J/2 inch forward of 5 to 7, as shown on Diagram 34. 

The width of the back opposite T, X and Y, and of the shoulder seam H to 4, can, of 
course, be varied as style ma}' demand. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



65 




DIAGRAM 32. 



66 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 

SINGLE-BREASTED SACK-COAT. 

Corpulent Form. 
Diagram 33. 
npHE proportionate taeasures used for the accorapaiiying diagram are for a man 6 feet in 
height, 48 breast, 50 waist and 51 seat. The shoulders are one degree high and two 
degrees stooping. As used when drafting, the measures are as follows : 

48 breast. 51 seat. | 18 natural waist. 14 blade. 

50 waist. 20 sleeve. 2634 seat-line. 15JS front depth. 

loyi back depth. | 31 length. 

To Draft. 

All the points on and above the breast-line excepting 5, 11 and N are obtained in the 
same manner as explained for Diagrams i and 2. Connect C and M to establish 5. I\I to N 
is 1 2 inch less than half-way from M to J. D to F is % inch. Shape the center-back-seam 
as represented. Square down from I to establish T and Y. Y to i is '2 inch. 

Shape the side-back-seara from 5 through T to i as represented. 

When the blade is proportionate to the breast as in this case, S to U is i/^ inch more 
than ^4 waist, as for a form having a waist 4 inches smaller than breast. In this instance, 
the breast being 48, a waist 4 inches sinaller would be 44 and I4 inch more than • . of 44 is 
II I4. The distance, then, from S to U for this draft is 11 14^ inches. 

U to V is the same as explained for Diagram 3, 2 inches for this draft. 

V to W is the same as explained for Diagram 3, i^ inch for this draft. 

W to 3 is the same as R to 2. F to T and V to 6 is one-half of the full waist, 25 
inches. Square down from U to establish 8. 

E to X and 8 to 9 is one-half of the full seat, 25 '2 iuclies. 

Shape the side seam from 5, taking out }^ inch at J, and passing 'i inch back of 9 as 
represented. Square down from 3 to establish 10. 

Shape the front for the one-button cutaway sack as represented by the heavy line, or 
to taste or style. On the breast line it is shaped '4 inch forward of 2. 

For a straight front, or one to button at the waist, the front edge is shown in a light 
solid line, passing through 2 and '4 inch back of 3 to the bottom. 

Shape the bottom from 12 towards a point }4 inch below 10. 

From M to 11 is '4 breast. Square down from 1 1 to fix the front of the pocket 
opening. Connect N and 18 by a straight line. 

The pattern of the forepart having been cut out, then cut from N to 18 and across to 17. 

Lay it on the material or over another piece of paper if preferred, and mark from oppo- 
site 17 up and around the shoulder and scye to N, and from N to iS and 17, 

Spread the pocket opening at 18 according to the degree of corpulency, about 14 inch 
for each 2 inches that the waist is less than 4 inches smaller than the breast. 

Press a flat fold on the pattern forward of 17, and mark from N to the pocket opening, 
N to 5, 5 to 12 and 12 to the fold opposite 17, as shown bv the part which is shaded. 

The wedge-shaped piece at the pocket opening is cut from the material. An inla}- may 
be left from N to 18 if desired. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



67 




DIAGRAM 33. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THE TUXEDO. 

Diagram 34. 

■" I HE measures used for the accompauying diagram are for a man 5 feet 10 inches in 
height, 36 breast, erect, sloping shoulders and small blades. 

First select the measures from the tables for a proportionate form, of 36 breast. The 
back depth is then shortened % inch ; the front depth lengthened the same amount, and the 
blade reduced }^ inch for erectness. The changed back and front depths are then lengthened 
each y2 inch for sloping shoulders. 

The measures as used when drafting are as follows : 



36 breast. 
32 waist. 

37 seat. 



19^2 sleeve. 
9 back depth. 
17 natural waist. 

To Draft. 



25^^ seat-line. 
29 length. 
10% blade. 
1 2 Js front depth. 



All the points not herein referred to are obtained in the same manner as explained for 
Diagrams i, 2 and 32. 

D to F is 1 3 inch. 

Point I is half-way from B to C. Square forward from i to establish 5. 

The fish under the arm being omitted, the side seam of the forepart is shaped from a 
point '^ inch forward of 5 and i/^ inch from the side of the back opposite J. 

As the blade size used is I4 inch less than as given on the tables for a man of 36 breast, 
the star is established the same amount forward of S as explained for Diagram 4. 

From the star to V is I4. inch more than '2 waist. 

F to T and V to 6 is yi of the full waist. 

Points 7, 8 and 9 are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 32. 

For an extremely long roll the collar crease-line is drawn from 22 pas.sing i< inch for- 
ward of 13. 

Point 22 is obtained by drawing the lapel crease-line from the end of the roll, as at 3, 
towards a point i inch forward of 13. 

A convenient way to obtain the style effect for the lapel is to fold the paper which is for- 
ward of the crease-line underneath the pattern and shape the edge of the lapel according to 
taste or style as represented by the light lines from 3 to 2 1 and 20. Then with a tracer 
mark through the paper from 21 to 3 and from 21 to 20. On opening out the fold the front 
will be defined above 3 to 23. Then shape the gorge from 13 to 23. 

For corpulent forms all the points on the waist and seat lines are obtained as explained 
for Diagram 33. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



69 




DIAGRAM 34. 



JO THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK-COAT. 

Diagram 35. 

npHE measures used for the accompauying diagram are for a man 5 feet 8 inches in height 
and 38 breast, as found on the tables for a form of 38 breast, proportionate except in 
height. The measures are as follows : 

i6'2 natural waist. 11I2 blade. 



28 breast. 
34 waist. 



39 seat. 
18-34; sleeve. 
9 back depth. 



24.54; seat-line. 
29^2 length. 



To Draft. 



1254; fi'ont depth. 



All the points on and above the breast line, excepting 2, 20, 21, 22 and 23, are obtained 
in the same manner as explained for Diagrams i and 2. 

D to F is 34^ inch. O to i is I4 inch. 

All the remaining points on the waist and seat lines, except 3, are obtained in the same 
manner as explained for Diagram 32. 

R to 2 and W to 3 are each 2^4^ inches, or the style. 

Square down from W and 3 to establish 10 and 12. 

Establish the end of the roll, also points 20 and 21, according to taste or style. 

Fold the paper on the crease-line, trace from 20 to 21 and 2 1 to the end of the roll as 
explained for Diagram 34. This will give the shape of the revers and establish 23. Then 
shape the gorge from 13 to 23. This establishes 22. 

Space for the buttonholes. 

Pivot at 15 and sweep backwards from the eye of each buttonhole, also sweep forwards 
and backwards from a point ^4 inch below 10. 

From 10 to 16 is the same as 10 to 12. 

Shape the bottom back of 16 as represented. 

From the center-of-front line R W to the button-line is 3^ inch less than from the 
center-of -front line to the front edge of the forepart. 

For corpulent forms, all the points on the waist and seat lines, except 3, are obtained in 
the same manner as explained for Diagram 33. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



71 




DIAGRAM 35. 



72 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



WHOLE BACKS FOR SACK COATS. 

Diagram 36. 

T^RAW the construction line A C and obtain all the points except i as explained for 
^-^^ Diagram 32. 

Y to I is 5^ inch. 

Shape the side seam from 5 through T to i. 

Cut off a seam's width, '4 inch forward of the line A O, and when marking on the 
material lay the center-of-back as represented b3- the heavy line, and even with the fold of the 
material. 

Diagram 37. 

A back which has been drafted with a shaped center-back-seam may be changed to a 
whole back by laying the pattern as first drafted over another piece of paper touching a 
straight line at the top and at the waist as from A to D. The back below the waist line 
is shown in dotted lines. 

Mark all around above the waist line. 

Pivot the pattern as at the circled disk midway between D and T and swing the part 
below until the center-of-back touches the straight line as from D to 3, then mark below T 
and across the bottom. 

This gives 3 and 4. 

T will then be at 2 and D at i. 

The material must be stretched on the side seam on the waist line and shrunk at the back 
center opposite, to run with the lines of the original pattern as shown below the waist in 
dotted lines. 

The center-back-seam may be laid to overlap the fold of the material '4 inch, or '4 
inch may be taken ofT from the pattern and then laid even with the fold as explained for 
Diagram 36. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



73 




DIAGRAM 36. 



DIAGRAM 37. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 75 



OVERCOATS. 

npHE measures for an overcoat may he taken oxer tlie vest, tlie same as for an undercoat, 
■*■ Init preferably over the undercoat. 

W'lien they are taken o\er the vest allowances for extra size must be made as follows : 

For Lie, I it \\"i'.ii;ii'i' M.\'i'i-;ri.\i,. 

Add to the breast 2 inches. 
" waist 2 " 
" " seat 3 " 

" " back depth, front depth and blade each '2 inch. 

For Mi'.DirM Hi'.a\\' Wkigiit MA'n':Ri.\i,. 

Add to the breast and waist each 2 '2 inches. 
" " seat 3'3 inches. 

back depth, front depth and blade each J^. inch. 



u u 



For Extra Hhaxv Wkight Matkrial. 

Add to the breast and waist each 3 inches. 
" " seat 4 inches. 

" " back depth, front depth and blade each i inch. 

Except as regards size, all overcoats which trace the i'orm of the back, as the Chesterfield, 
are drafted in the same manner as sack coats. The extra length changes in no nuinner the 
construction. For looser overcoats extra allowances must be made to the widths, as is 
explained for Diagram 40. 

The lap over the center-of -front line R \V for a single-breasted overcoat is 2 inches for 
light weight material and 2' 2 inches for heavv. For a double-breasted overcoat the lap is 
usually 3 to 3V2 inches. 

The eyes of the buttonholes are usually '^4 inch back of the front edge, and the buttons 
are placed as much back of the center-of-front line R VV as the eves of the buttonholes are 
forward of the same line. 

The shape of the lapel at the top is, of course, a matter of individual taste or stvle. 



76 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



T 



THE CHESTERFIELD OR FLY-FRONT OVERCOAT. 

Regular Form. 
Diagram 38. 

HE measitres as selected from tlie tables are for a proportionate form of 36 breast, taken 
over the vest, and are as follows : 



36 breast. 
32 waist. 



37 seat. 

83^; back depth. 

i6?3 natural waist. 



2434^ seat-line. 
39^2 length. 
II blade. 



12V8 front depth. 



The sleeve will be I2 inch longer than as for an nndercoat. 

By adding the allowances for light weight material, as given in the preceding article, 
the measures, as used when drafting, are as follows : 



38 brea.st. 
34. waist. 



40 seat. 



19I4 sleeve. 
()'^Sr back depth. 



1 1 '2 blade. 

125/8 front deptli. 



I 7 natural waist. 
25 '4 seat-line. 
39 1 3 length. 

To Draft. 

Square the lines A O and A 19. 

Place the end of the tape-measure y^ inch below A and mark the back depth at C, 
natural waist at D, seat-line at E and 54 inch more than the length at O. 

B to C is half of the back depth. Square forward from B, C, D, E and O. 

D to F is y2 inch. Shape the center-back-seam as represented. 

A to G is ^ breast. G to H is yV breast. 

B to K is the blade. K to L is i inch. L to M is 'a inch. 

I is half-wa}' from B to M. I to J is i '4 inch. 

Square up and down from J to establish 1 9, T, X and i . 

M to P is V2 inch less than Ve breast. Square up from M and P. 

B to Q is '2 of full breast. Q to R is 2^2 inches. R to 2 is 2 inches. 

Connect H and P. Connect C and M. 

vShape the back-scye and complete the back as represented. 

L to 13 is 3_^ inch more than the front depth, less the width of the back from A to H. 

Square forward from 13. 

From 13 to 14 is 'a breast. Connect 13 and C. 

From 13 to 4 is the same as H to 4 on the back. 

Shape the shoulder from 13 to 16, which is 3^_ inch below 4, and finish the scve below 
16, as represented \>y the heav}- and broken lines. 

Square down from K to establish S. 

When the blade is proportionate to the breast, as in this case, S to \' is '4 inch more 
than '2 waist. 

\' to W is 2 '4 inches. W to 3 is the same as R to 2. 

Connect 14, R and W, and square down from W and 3. 

From 14 to 15 is % breast. 

Shape the front through 2 and 3 to the bottom as represented. 

The shape above 2 is a matter of taste or stvle. 

( CoiifiiiHed oil page /S'. ) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



77 




l7(»;^-t^'8 



DIAGRAM 38. 



78 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THE CHESTERFIELD. 

( Coiichidcd. ) 

Establish the end of the roll, draw the crease-line and obtain points 20, 21, 2 2 and 23, 
as explained for Diagram 34. 

F to T and V to 6 is •, of fnll waist. 

vSquare down from V to establish 8. 

E to X and 8 to 9 is '2 of fnll seat. 

Draw a straight line from 5 through i. From J to i 7 is 36 inches. From 17 to 18 is 
2^/2 inches. Connect 7 and 18 to establish Y. 

Shape the side seam from a point '2 inch forward of 5, 5 ,s inch forward of the side-back 
opposite J, through 7, which is i inch forward of T, and passing '2 inch back of 9 to Y as 
represented. 

From 7 to Y is the same as T to i. 

Shape the bottom from Y as represented, passing '2 inch below 10. 

M to 1 1 is yi inch more than I4 breast. 

From the center-of -front line R W to the button-line is 34 inch less than from R to 2. 

The front for a double-breasted overcoat is shown in light lines. From R and W to 
the front edge is 3 inches. The end of the collar for both coats is at 23. For the double- 
breasted overcoat the button line is 5^4 inches from the front edge. 

A small V may be taken out at the gorge, as shown on Diagram 39. It helps to give 
form to the top of the roll. 



8o THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THE CHESTERFIELD OR FLY-FRONT OVERCOAT. 

CoRPULEXT Form. 
Diagram 39. 
HE proportionate measures used are for a man 68 inches in height, 42 breast, 41 waist 



T 



and 45 seat, taken over the luidercoat. The shoulders are one degree high. 
As used \vheu drafting the measures are as follows : 

1 6 '2 natural waist. 



42 breast. 
41 waist. 



45 seat. 
i83/j; sleeve. 
<^V\ back depth. 



24^ seat-line. 
42 '4 length. 



1 2 '2 blade. 
i^iV^ front depth. 



To Draft. 



All the points excepting 19, J, N, 6, U, \", W and S are obtained in the same manner 
as explained for Diagram 38. 

I to J for the average form is 1 14 inch for an overcoat. The width of the back, howe\'er, 
varies according to style, and in this case I to J is i 'j inch. 

Square up and downi from J as before. 

When the blade is proportionate to the breast (see table), S to U is I4 inch more than 
i^ waist, as for a form having a waist 4 or more inches smaller than breast. For 42 breast 
a waist 4 inches smaller is 38 inches, and ^4 inch more than '2 of 38 (or 19 on the divisions 
of halves) is 9^4^ inches. So in this case S to U is 93^ inches. 

The difference between the waist, 38, as above explained, and that for the form to be 
fitted, 41, is 3 inches. This shows that the form is 3 inches corpulent, and one-third of this, 
or I inch, is placed forward of U as to V. 

V to W is 2' '8 inches when the waist is 3 inches smaller than the breast, 2 inches when 
the waist is 2 inches smaller than the breast, i '' s inch when the waist is i inch smaller 
than the breast, and i -^4 inch when the waist is as large or larger than the breast. 

F to T and V to 6 is Yz of the full waist. Scpiare down from U to establish 8. E to X 
and 8 to 9 is 3^ of the full seat. T to 7 is i inch. 

Draw a straight line from 5 through i. J to 17 is 36 inches. From 17 to 18 is 2^ 
inches. Connect 7 and 18 to establish Y. 

Shape the side seam from 5, passing 's inch forward of the side-back seam opposite J, 
through 7, and '2 inch backward of 9 to Y as represented. 

M to N is 1 2 inch less than half-way from M to J. 

M to II is '2 inch more than '4 breast. 

The skirt pockets are placed two-thirds of the distance between U and S below U. 

Connect X and the back of the pocket mouth. 

The pattern is cut from N to, and across to the front end of, the pocket mouth, and 
when marking on the material the cut is opened out as explained for Diagram },},. 

A ^-inch \' is taken out near the end of the gorge. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 




DIAGRAM 39. 



82 THE 'KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



DOUBLE-BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT. 

Diagram 40. 

npHE proportionate measures used are for a man 5 feet 8 inches in height, 38 breast, 34 
waist and 40 seat, taken over tJie undercoat. The shoulders are one degree stooping 
and two degrees sloping. 



The measures are as follows : 

38 breast. 

34 waist. 



40 seat. 
19 '^ sleeve. 
93^ back depth. 



17V4 natural waist. 
25 '4 seat-line. 
43 length. 



1 1 '> blade. 
13 front depth. 



To Draft. 

Square the lines A E and A 19. 

Place the end of the tape-measure '4 inch below A and mark the lengths for the back 
depth, natural waist, seat-line and length at B, D, E and O respectively, adding '4 inch to 
the length. 

Square forward from B, D, E and O. 

D to E is 1 2 inch. 

Connect A, F and E. 

E to 30 is ]'2 inch, or i inch, as desired. 

Draw a straight line from A through 30, and square forward again from O for the run 
of the bottom of the back. 

It should be noted that the drafting points B, F and E are on the broken line. 

B to K is '4 inch more than the blade. 

K to L is I inch. L to M is Yz inch. 

I is half-way from B to AI. 

I to J is I ^i inch. 

B to N is y^ breast. 

Square down from N to establish X and i. 

B to Q is '2 inch more than 3/ of full breast. 

Q to R is 25^ inches. 

R to 2 is 35^ inches, or to style. 

All the remaining points on and above the breast-line, excepting 6, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 and 
29, are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 38. 

When the blade is proportionate to the breast, S to Y is ]i inch more than '2 waist. 

(Whenever the blade used is more or less than the size given on the table for a corre- 
sponding breast size, then establish the star and obtain point \' from the star instead of from 
V, as explained for Diagram 4.) 

For forms having a waist 4 or more inches smaller than breast, points W and 3 are 
obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 38. For corpulent forms having a 
blade proportionate to the breast, obtain points U, V, W, 8 and 9 as explained for Diagram 
39, excepting that V is advanced 'i inch further forward. 

[Con tinned on page 8-f.) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



S3 




* O 



DIAGRAM 40. 



84 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



DOUBLE-BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT. 

( Concluded. ) 

From 9 to 7 is 3^2 inches for this draft. It may be 4 or more inches, according to the 
fullness desired around the seat. 

Shape the side seam from N through 7 and make the length X to Y the same as X to i. 

For very full backs, the side seam is sometimes oval-shaped from X to Y as shown bv the 
light line which is drawn i inch back of 7. \\'hen so shaped, the back should be put on full 
to the forepart. 

In case a high-padded shoulder is desired, proceed as follows : 

Draw a line across the front shoulder as from 25 to 26. This line is at the top of the 
front shoulder. 

From 26 to 27 is ^4, '2 inch or more, according to the amount of building desired. 

Pivot the pattern at 2^ and swing 26 up to 27. Then mark along the edge of the pattern 
from 25 to 13 and from 13 to 16, which gives 28. Reshape the sc\-e below 28, flattening from 
y^ to ''2 inch opposite 26, to give greater width to the front shoulder. 

Pivot the pattern of the back at H and raise point 4 as much as 27 is from 26. Mark 
along the edge from H to 4, which gives 6. 

A '4-inch \' is taken out near the end of the gorge, and points 23 and 29 are advanced 
the same amount when the V is stoated as shown b}- the heavy lines. When the \' is 
seamed, points 23 and 29 should be advanced ^i inch more than the width of the \". 

Finish as represented. 



86 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 

DOUBLE-BREASTED PADDOCK OVERCOAT. 

Diagram 41. 

'T'HE proportionate measures used for the accompanying diagram are for a man 6 feet in 

height, 40 breast, 36 waist and 42 seat. The shoulders are one degree high and stoop- 

ine. The measures as taken over the undercoat, and as used when drafting, are as follows : 



40 breast. 
36 waist. 
42 seat. 
20 sleeve. 



gj/l back depth. 
173/j^ natural waist. 
20 fashionable waist. 
26 '^2 seat-line. 



50 length. 

12 blade. 

127 k front depth. 



To Draft. 

Square the lines A U and A 19. 

Place the end of the tape-measure ^4^ inch below A and mark the back depth at B, natu- 
ral waist at F, fashion waist at D, seat-line at E and l^ inch more than the length at U. B 
to C is half of the back depth. Square across from B, C, F, D, E and U. 

D to X is ^^ inch. Draw a straight line from A to X. 

A to I is tV breast. Draw a straight line from i through X. This establishes O. 

B to K is the blade. Square down from K to establish S. 

K to L is I inch, L to M is ^2 inch, M to P is 'j inch less than ^6 breast. Square wp 
from M and P. 

B to Q is '2 of full brea.st. 

Q to R is 2^2 inches. 

R to 2 is 3 inches. 

I is half-way from B to M. I to J is I'i inch. Square up from J. 

All the remaining points on and above the breast line, excepting N, 11, 5, 20, 21, 22, 23, 
24, 25 and 26, are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 38. 

Connect C and P to establish 5. 

F to T is '2 inch less than '4 breast. 

Square forward from O. 

O to Xi is ^s inch more than F to T. Connect T and Xi. This establishes Ui. 

Shape the back skirt from Ui to Xi, rounding out -s inch from the straight line, and 
add 1 14 inch for the plait. 

When the blade is proportionate to the breast as found on the table, S to V is 14^ inch 
more than '2 waist. ( When the blade is more or less than as on the table for a correspond- 
ing breast size, establish the star and obtain point \' from the star instead of from S as ex- 
plained for Diagram 4.) 

\' to W is 2^ inches, except for corpulent forms. 

W to 3 is the same as R to 2. 

F to 33 is I inch more than '2 breast. 

From 33 to 34 and 33 to 35 are each 5/^ inch. 

F to T, V to 34 and 35 to 6 is ^4 of the full waist. 

{Coiiti)nicd oil page SS.) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



87 




DIAGRAM 41. 



THE 'KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



DOUBLE-BREASTED PADDOCK OVERCOAT. 

( Co)n/iidcd.] 

Draw a straight line from 5 to Xi. 

J to 17 is 36 inches. From 17 to 18 is 2^2 inches. 

Point 7 is half-way between T and 6. 

Shape the side back from 5 throngh I and T to U i . 

Square down from \", W and 3. 

Take the width of the back opposite E, place this at S and measure backward • . of the 
full seat to 9. 

From 9 to 28 is ]i inch. Shape the side seam from a point '2 inch forward of 5 through 
7 and 28 as represented. 

Pivot at I and sweep forward from Ui to establish 27. 

Draw a straight line from 27 through 18. Shape the seam below 28 through iS and 
add I I4 inch for the plait as represented. 

From 27 to 30 is the same as Ui to Xi. 

From 3 to 12 is 12 inches. From 12 to 31 is '2 inch. 

Draw a straight line from 3 through 31 and shape the bottom from 30 to 32 passing % 
inch below 10. 

P to 1 1 is I inch. 

Square down from 11 to establish 36. 

From 36 to 37 is 71^ inches. 

The pocket welt is I'i' inch wide. The breast pocket is 5^2 inches wide and the flap 2 
inches. 

B to N is % inch more than '2 breast. 

Draw a straight line from N through 33 and shape the underarm cut as represented. 

Points 20, 21, 22 and 23 are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 34. 

A 5/4-inch V is taken out at or near the end of the gorge as from 23 to 24, and point 25 
is advanced the same amount, as to 26, when the Y is to be stoated. 

When the V is to be seamed point 26 is advanced 'i inch more than the width of the X . 

From the center-of-front line, R W, to the button-line is ^^'^ inch less than from the same 
line to the front edge. 

Establish the buttonholes and sweep backward from the eye of each buttonhole, pivot- 
ing at 15 to fix the position of the buttons on the button-line. 

X to Y is i^ inch. 

The back is cut across from Y to Ui. When marking on the material the lines A Y 
and Y O are laid on a fold and a seam must be added to each back portion on the line from 
Y to Ui. 

The opening which is at the right side is made over a false back skirt. 



go THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



T 



THE SINGLE-BREASTED PALETOT OVERCOAT. 

Diagram 42. 

HE proportionate measures used are as taken over the undercoat for a form the same as 
described for the precedinsr diagram, as follows : 



40 breast. 
36 waist. 
42 seat. 
20 sleeve. 



9':^ back depth. 
17^4 natviral waist. 
20 fashionable waist. 
26 ''2 seat-line. 



50 length. 

12 blade. 

12 J4 front depth. 



To Draft. 

Square the lines A O and A 19. 

Obtain points B, C, D, E, F, X, i and the length to O in the same manner as explained 
for Diagram 41. Square forward from B, C, F, D, E and O. 

All the points on and above the breast line, excepting 27, 5 and 2 are obtained in the 
same manner as explained for Diagram 41. 

R to 2 is 2 inches. 

X to Y is j-'s inch more than '., breast. 

Draw a straight line from 19 to a point midwav between X and Y to establish 27. 

Point 5 is half-way from 4 to J. 

O to Z is }i inch more than X to Y. Draw a straight line from Y to Z. vShape the 
side-back from 5 through 27 to Y; the back skirt rounding ^s inch forward of the straight 
line as represented, and add 1 1^^ inch for the plait below Y. 

F to 7 is I4 inch less than '2 breast. 

As the waist is 4 inches smaller than the breast, i inch is taken out at the underarm 
cut as from 7 to 12. 

Draw a straight line from N midway between 7 and 12. 

S to V is 14 "ich more than % waist. V to W is 2^4 inches. W to 3 is 2 inches. 

F to T, V to 12 and 7 to 6 is j4 of full waist. 

Shape the sidebod}- from a point ^4 inch forward of 5, passing '4 inch forward of 27 
and through 6 as represented. 

From 27 to 17 is I4 inch more than 27 to Y. 

Point 18 is I4 inch above the fashion waist line. 

Shape the lower edge of the sidebody from 17 to 18, and the underarm cut from N 
through 7 and 12 to 30 as represented. Point 30 is 3';. inches below 18. 

Square down from V to establish 8. 

From 8 to 9 is '2 of full seat, less the width of the back opposite E. 

From 9 to 28 is y^ inch. 

Draw a guide line from 5 through 9. 

From 18 to 24 is }i inch. From 17 to 25 is i/^ inch. 

From 24 to 25 is the top of the skirt. 

From 25 to 29 is 18 inches. 

( Co)iliHned on page g2.\ 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



91 




DIAGRAM 42. 



92 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 

SINGLE-BREASTED PALETOT OVERCOAT. 

( Coinlitdcd.) 

Shape the back edge of the skirt from 25 through 2(S and 29 as represented and add 
I '4 inch for the plait. 

From 25 to U is the same as Y to Z. 

Shape the bottom from U to 31 passing '2 inch below 10. 

The back is cut without a center-back seam, being first cut across from yi inch below 
X to Y. Each part is then laid on a fold of the goods from A to X and from X to O, and 
a seam must be added to each part on the cross cut from Y. The opening, which is on the 
right side, is made over a false back skirt. 

Finish as represented. 

A loose cufl is superimposed on the diagram. It is drafted in the following manner : 

The sleeve having first been drafted and cut the length required, take another piece of 
paper and draw a straight line as from i to 2 and one parallel with and 1^2 inch below it 
as from 3 to 4. 

Cut the paper on the line from 3 to 4 and fold the part below \ and 2 on the top, thus 
forming a crease-edge from i to 2. The edge from 3 to 4 will then lie as from 5 to 6. 

Take the upper and under sleeves separatelv, and lav them with the bottom touching 
the line from i to 2. 

Mark along the front and back edges of the sleeve pattern above i and 2, which is 
shown in broken lines, and mark points 5 and 6. 

Remove the pattern of the sleeve and shorten the sleeve on the line from 5 to 6. 

From I to 7 and 2 to 8 is the width desired. 

Points 7 and 8 are each '4 inch outside of the broken lines. 

Shape the cuff from i to 7 and 2 to S. 

Cut the cuff pattern when folded on the crease-line from i to 7 and from 2 to 8. 
Then cut on the narrow part on the lines from i to 5 and 2 to 6. When the fold is opened 
out we have the lines from i to 3 and 2 to 4. 

The broken line 5 to 6 is now the lower edge of the sleeve pattern. The cufl' from 3 to 
4 is joined to the sleeve from 5 to 6 and is turned up at the original length i to 2, 



94 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 

THE INVERNESS OVERCOAT. 

Regular Form. 
Diagram 43. 

■* I 'HE proportionate measures used, as taken over the undercoat, are for a form of 37 breast, 
as found on the tables of proportionate measures, as follows : 



37 breast. 
33 waist. 
39 seat. 



S Js back depth. 
i63/j^ natural waist. 
24 ^4 seat-line. 

To Draft. 



48 length. 
11% blade. 
12^8 front depth. 



Square the lines A U and A 19. 

Place the end of the tape-measure '4 inch below A and mark the back depth at B, nat- 
ural waist at D, seat-line at E, and }<^. inch more than the length at U. 

Square across from B, D, E and U. 

D to F is ^ inch. Connect A and F. 

A to G is i/^ breast. G to H is .,V breast. 

B to K is I4 inch more than the blade. 

K to L is I inch. 

L to P is ^'6 breast. 

B to Q is '2 inch more than ^4 of full breast. 

Q to R is 2^2 inches. 

R to 2 is 2 inches. 

B to I is I4 inch more than half-wa\- from B to L. 

1 to J is 1 14 inch. 

Square up from J and P. 

Square down from M and K to establish T and S. 

D to Y is I inch. 

Draw a straight line from A through Y, and square forward from O for the bottom of 
the back to establish N. 

L to 13 is i^ inch more than the front depth, less the width of the top of the back A to 



H. 



B to 12 is 2 inches. 

P to 17 is I4 breast. 

From 17 to 18 is % inch. 

Connect 12 and 13. Connect H and 18. 

Shape the side back from ^4 inch forward of 4 through J and T to N, as represented. 

F to C is i^ of the distance from F to B. Square forward from C. 

From 13 to 16 is 'fe breast. 

{Coiiti)iiied oil pi^gc g6.) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



95 




DIAGRAM 43. 



96 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THE INVERNESS OVERCOAT. 

( CoHciiidrd. ) 

Shape from i6, passing ^2 inch forward of L, toward 5, as represented. 

S to V is i^ inch more than '2 waist. 

When the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than the breast V to W is 2 '4 inches. 

W to 3 is the same as R to 2. 

Square down from V, W and 3. 

E to T and 8 to 9 is Yi of the full seat. 

From 9 to X is 4^ inches. 

Draw a straight line from J through X. This establishes 5. 

J to Z is the same as J to N. 

Square forward from 13. 

From 13 to 14 is ^^ breast. 

Draw a slightly outward curved line from 1 4 through R to W. This is the center-of- 
front line. 

From 14 to 15 is 1 5 breast. 

Square forward from 15. 

From 15 to 20 is 2^4 inches. 

Shape the gorge from 13 to 15; the front from 20 through 2 and 3 towards 21, and the 
bottom from Z to 21, passing yi inch below 10 as represented. 

Square down from P. 

From 22 to 23 is '3' of the distance between V and 8. 

From 23 to 24 is S)^ inches. 

The end of the collar is at 15. The collar is drafted in the same manner as explained 
for Diagram 25. The leaf of the collar is 2^4 inches wide. 

When marking on the material the center-of-back, A O, is laid even with the fold. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THE INVERNESS CAPE. 

Diagram 44. 

T AY the pattern of tlie forepart over another piece of paper and mark along the shoulder, 
gorge and front edge. 

Mark points P, 15 and 16, and extend the shonlder seam toward 22. Square down from P. 

From 13 to 22 is the same as A to H on the back. 

Lay the pattern of the back with the outer shoulder point touching 22. Pivot the back 
at 22 and swing it until the center-of-back below A is about square with the front below 20. 
Then mark along the side of the back below 22. 

From 22 to 23 is the same as 4 to 5 (Diagram 43). 

Connect A and. 15. 

O is half-way from A to 15. 

A to H and 13 to 24 is the length. 

Square forward from 24 to establish 25. 

Pivot at O and sweep backward from 24, rounding to 23 as represented. 



THE " KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



99 




DIAGRAM 44. 



L ofC. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



NEWMARKET AND SURTOUT OVERCOATS. 

Diagram 45. 

nPHE ineasures as taken over the undercoat are for a man 6 feet in height, 40 breast, 37 
waist and 42 seat. His shoulders are one degree stooping. The remaining measures 
are found on the tables for corresponding height and breast. 
As used when drafting the measures are as follows : 



40 breast. 
37 waist. 
42 seat. 



()% back depth. 
i"]^'^ natural waist. 
20 fashionable waist. 



46 length for Surtout. 

52 length for Newmarket. 

12 blade, 13 S fi'ont depth. 

To Draft the Newmarket. 

Square the lines A O and A 19. 

Obtain the lengths to B, C, D, E and O, as explained for the preceding diagrams, and 
square the cross-lines forward. 

D to F is ^ inch and E to X is the same. 

X to 17 is I ^ inch. 

Draw a straight line from A through 17, and the center-back parallel with it below X. 
Square forward from O. 

F to T is ]4 breast. 

Obtain all the remaining points on and above the breast line, excepting 2, 20, 23, 24, 
25, J, and R, in the same manner as explained for Diagrams i and 2. 

Connect 19 and X to establish 20. Q to R is 2 3^^ inches. 

The depth of the gorge at 23 is governed bv stvle. In this instance from 15 to 23 is 
Yi inch. 

I to J is 1 14^ to I ^-^ inch, or according to fashionable width of back required. 

When the blade is proportionate to the breast, as in this case, S to U is % inch more 
than ]4 of a waist 4 inches smaller than breast, which in this instance would be 9J4 inches. 

As the difference between the breast and waist is 3 inches, or i inch less than the differ- 
ence for a normal form, one-third of this i inch is placed forward of U, as to V, say % inch. 
When the waist is 4 inches smaller than the breast, V to W is 2J2 inches. When the waist 
is 3 inches smaller than the breast, as in this instance, V to W is 2^-, inches. When the 
waist is 2 inches smaller than the breast, \'' to W is 2 '4 inches. When the waist is i inch 
smaller than the breast, V to W is 2's inches. When the waist is as large or larger than 
the breast, V to W is 2 inches. 

Shape the lapel-seam-edge from 23 through R and W as represented. 

For each inch that the waist is smaller than the breast, % inch is taken out in the 
underarm seam at the natural waist, so that in this instance ^^ inch is taken out, as from 
7 to 8 ( i<4^ inch backward and 'i inch forward of i ). 

F to T, \' to 8 and 7 to 6 is >^ of the full waist. 

Shape the sidebody from a point '2 inch forward of 5, passing '4 inch forward of 20 
and through 6 as represented. 

( C oil tinned ON poi^r /oj.) 



THE 'KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 




DIAGRAM 45. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



NEWMARKET AND SURTOUT OVERCOATS. 

{Concluded.^ 

From 20 to 9 is '4 inch more than 20 to Y. 

Point 10 is y^ inch above the fashion waist line, and 21 is i'/^ inch below the same line. 
Shape from N through 7 and 8, from 9 to 10 and 11 to 21 as represented. 

For small waists a small fish is taken out ou tlie waist line, as shown on Diagram 5. 
For larger waists this is changed to a \' and placed furtlier forward, as shown on this dia- 
gram and as explained for Diagram 6. 

The Lapel. 

From 23 to 24 is 2 inches. Draw a straight line from 24 through W. 
From 24 to 25 is 3 inches. 

From opposite R to 2 is 33^ inches, and at the bottom 2'^ inches. 
Shape as represented. 

The Skirt. 

The skirt is drafted in all respects the sa'me as explained for Diagrams 16 and 17, 
except that from 8 to 9 is i V^ inch. 

Any reasonable amount from ]/^ to i inch may be taken out between 26 and 27, but the 
same amoiint must be added from D to E and from g to B. 

Square down from Q to establish the front of the pocket flap. The flap is w'^i inches 
long and 3^^ inches wide. The pocket opening is iinder the flap. 

For a roll to button 3 buttons, the collar should be drafted the same as on Diagram 24. 
If to button 4 buttons, then it should be drafted the same as ou Diagram 23. 

The Surtout. 

This overcoat is drafted in the same manner as the Newmarket, except that it is shorter, 
and the pockets and flaps on the sides of the skirt are omitted. The length is defined 
by points 13, 14, 15 and 16. 



I04 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THE RAGLAN OVERCOAT. 

Diagram 46. 

npHE measures used are the same as for Diagram 40. 

All the points, excepting i, 2, 3, 5, 6, 10, 12, 17, iS, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, O, Y and Z, 
are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 40. 

R to 2 and W to 3 are each 2 inches. 

Point 6 is half-way from H to i, and 10 half-way from 6 to i. 

From 10 to T is j-2 inch. 

From 13 to O is I inch. 

Square up from M. 

Measure the scye for the square shoulder overcoat, which for this draft is iS'/ inches. 

M to Z and J to Y are each ^^ of the full scye, ^Vs inches. 

Shape the back shoulder from H through T and Y, and the front from O through Z as 
represented. 

O to U is the same as H to T. Notch both parts at T and U. 

The line from 17 to 18 represents the opening for a straight pocket, and is the same as 
on Diagram 40. 

P to 12 is % inch. Square down from 12. 

From 1 2 to 24 is y^ of the natural waist. 

From 24 to 25 is 2 ,'4 inches. 

From 25 to 26 is 7^ inches. 

The welt is i y^ inch wide, and covers an opening tlirough which the hand can reach 
to the trousers pocket when the Raglan is worn over an evening dress suit. 

Raglans intended for general wear usually have cross-pockets, either straight or curved. 
For a curved pocket, go up i ^ inch from 17 to 27, and down the same amount from iS to 
28. The flaps are from 3 to t,}4 inches wide. 

The front closes with a fly, and as from R to 2 is 2 inches, from R to the button-line is 
1 1/ inch. 



THE 'KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



-105 




DIAGRAM 46. 



io6 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THE RAGLAN SLEEVE. 

Diagram 47. 

A LL the lettered and numbered points, excepting Hi, T, U, Y, i, 2, 4, 6, 7 and 13, are 
obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 29. 

When the upper and under sleeves have been drafted, all excepting the round of the 
upper sleeve, from F to J, then lay the pattern of the forepart with the front of the scye 
touching at F, and the breast line directly over the line C H. The position of the shoulder 
of the forepart is shown in broken lines. 

Mark point 13 and along the scye, as is also shown in Ijroken lines to the side seam at 2. 

Lay the pattern of the backpart with the breast line directly over the line C H and the 
side seam touching 2. The position of the backpart is also shown in broken lines. 

Y is the same as on Diagram 31. 

Mark points Hi and Y and remove the pattern. 

Draw straiglit lines from F through 13 and from Y through Hi. 

From 13 to I is i J4 inch and from Hi to 4 -■•^ inch. 

Pivot at F and sweep backward from i. 

From J to 6 is the same as Y to _|. Connect J and 6. 

Lay the pattern of the back with Hi at 6 and the line from Y to Hi directU' over the 
straight line from J to 6. The position of the back is shown in dotted lines. 

Mark along the square back-shoulder seam and run a tracer from 6 along the raglan back- 
shoulder seam to the line O M. Remove the pattern and shape to J as represented. This 
is shown by the heavy broken line from 6 to J. Reshape the seam from J '4 inch tjutside 
of the heavy broken line at T and 6, as shown bv the heavy solid line. 

Lay the pattern of the forepart with the shoulder point 13 at 6, and the scjuare shoulder 
seam touching the line which was drawn along the square back shoulder. The position of 
the forepart is shown in dotted lines. 

Mark from 13 to O (Diagram 46) (which correspond with 6 and 7) and run a tracer 
fnun 7 along the raglan front shoulder seam to Z (Diagram 46). Remove the pattern and 
complete the raglan shoulder seam as shown b}- the heavy broken line to F. Reshape by 
adding V^ inch outside of the broken line, as shown bA- the heavy solid line from 7 to F. 

The notches are at T and V, which correspond with the same points on Diagram 46. 

The end of the tongue ( 13 to (_), Diagram 46) can be made narrower if desired. It should 
not, however, be less than '_> inch. Whatever this may be, from 6 to 7 will, of course, be 
tlie same, increased the width of two seams. 

The forearm seam below B and 5 can be placed more under the arm if desired, as 
exjjlained for Diagram 30. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



107 




DIAGRAM 47. 



io8 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



SINGLE-BREASTED VEST. 

Creased Collar. 
Dl\gram 48. 
ME accompanying diagram is for a regular form of 36 breast, 32 waist and 5 feet 8 inches 



T 



height. The opening is 11, and the front length 25^4 inches. When drafting by the 
proportionate measures the remaining lengths and widths are selected from the tables of 
proportionate measures. The measures required and the method of drafting Mdien all the 
measures are taken on the form, is fully explained for Diagram 61. 
The measures, then, as used for this diagram are : 



36 breast. 83^ back depth. 

32 waist. I i6'j natural waist. 



1 1 blade. . 11 opening. 

12 's front depth. 25'+ front lengtlL 

To Draft. 

vSc[uare the lines A E and A ig. 

Place the end of the drafting-scjuare \ inch below A and mark the back-depth at B and 
natural waist at D. Square forward from B and D. 

D to F is I inch in tliis instance, or '^ inch for each inch that the waist is smaller than 
the breast. Curve the center-back-seam from A through F as represented. 

A to G is 1 6 breast. G to H is th breast. B to K is the blade. K to L is i inch. 

L to M is % inch. M to P is Ye breast. {% inch more than for a coat). 

B to Q is I'a of full breast. O to R is 2H inches. 

I is half-way from B to M. I to J is i inch. N is half-way from B to R. 

Square up from J, I\I and P and down from K. 

L to 13 is 34 inch more than the front depth, less the width of the back from A to H. 

B to C is Y of the back depth. 

Connect C and 13. Connect H and P. This establishes 4. 

Shape the scye from 4, rounding about ^2 inch back of the line from J to 19 to a point yi 
inch below N. 

From 13 to 16 is the same as H to 4. 

Finish the scye below 16 rounding out '4 inch forward of the line above M as represented. 

Square forward from 13. From 13 to 14 is \ breast. 

When the waist is 4 or more inches sn:aller than the breast and the blade is proportion- 
ate to the breast, S to \' is '4 inch more than '2 waist and Y to W is 2 ^4 inches. 

Draw a slighth- outward curved line from 14 through R and W as represented. 

From 14 to 15 is % breast. 

A to H and 13 to X is 3 inches more than the opening and on to Y is i inch more than 
the front length. 

W to 6 and F to T are each i inch more than '^ waist. 

Shape the side seam through T and 6 as represented. 

From 6 to Z is 3 inches. X to 7 is h^ inch more than N to Z. 

D to E is y. inch less than T to 7. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



109 



Draw the collar crease-line from X thnnii^ii 13 and the opening from 13 to a i)oint i^. 
inch inside of the crease-line about 3 inches below 13 and on to a point aboiil i inch above X 
as represented. 

From 13 to 8 is the same as A to H. 

From 8 to 9 is 34 inch. From 9 to 10 is 3^ inch. 

Shape the crease edge from 9 t<i the straight line at hollow of gorge. 

The end of the leaf above 9 is i inch. 

Shape the collar seam-edge from 10 and the leaf-edge as represented. 

The vest ma\- be made with flat collar as explained for Diagram 51 if so desired. 




DIAGRAM 48. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



SINGLE-BREASTED VEST. 

Creased Collar. 
Dlvgram 49. 

nr'HE measures used for the accouipauving diagram are for a stout form, the same as 
described for Diagram 3, as foHows : 

40 breast. | 91/4 back depth. j 12 bkide. I Ji^i opening. 

39 waist. I I 7 natural waist. | 13'-, front depth. | 26 front length. 

To Draft. 

All the points, excepting F, U, \' and W, are obtained in precisely the same manner as 
explained for Diagram 48. 

As the waist is i inch smaller than the breast, D to F is y^ inch. 

When the blade is proportionate to the breast, S to U is V^ inch more than ' 2 waist as 
for a form having a waist 4 inches smaller than breast. In this instance such a waist is 36 
inches and '^ inch more than '2 of a 36 waist is 9^4 inches, which is the distance from 
S to U. 

In this case the waist of the form to be fitted is 3 inches larger than one 4 inches 
smaller than the breast, and one-third of this, or i inch, is placed forward of U as to \'. 

\" to W is ays inches when the waist is 3 inches smaller than the breast, 2 inches when 
it is 2 inches smaller, i ^s inch when i inch smaller, as in this case, and 134 inch when it 
is as large or larger than the breast. 

A \" is taken out at the lower edge of the welt at the lower pocket as represented. It 
is about % inch wide at the side seam for each inch that the waist is less than 4 inches 
smaller than the breast. The side length is increased below Z '2 inch more than the width 
of the V for the seams occasioned bv the V. 

Finish as represented. 

When drafting by the proportionate measures except blade, which for an over-erect form 
is one, two or three degrees /ess than the proportionate blade for a corresponding breast size, 
establish the star the same amount forward of S as the size of the blade is reduced from the 
proportionate size, as shown on Diagram 50. 

When drafting by the proportionate measures except blade, which for a round, stooping- 
shouldered form ma}' be one or two degrees //20/t than the proportionate blade for a cor- 
responding breast size, establish the star the same amount backward of S as the size of the 
blade is increased from the proportionate size, as shown on Diagram 51. 

Whenever the blade size used is disproportionate to the breast, then from the star ( which 
must be established as above explained) to U is '4 inch more than '2 waist, instead of 
from S to U. 

When drafting b}' the measures as taken on the form (which includes the back waist 
measure), there is no use for the star, and all the points on the waist line are obtained as 
explained for Diagram 61. 



THE 'KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 




DIAGRAM 49. 



THE 'KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



SINGLE-BREASTED COLLARLESS VEST. 

Diagram 50. 

A LL the points excepting 9, 10, 11, 12, \" and the star are obtained in the same manner 
as explained for Diagram 48 when the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than the breast. 

In this instance the blade size used when drafting is '4 inch /rss than the proportionate 
blade. The star is therefore established '4 inch fora'urd oi vS, as explained in the preceding 
article. 

From the star to V is J4 incli more than 'j waist. 

Extend the line fi^om P upward through 13. 

From 13 to 9 is the same as A to H on the back. 

From 9 to 10 is 1 inch. 

From 13 to II is 3^ iuch. 

From 13 to 12 is '4 inch. 

Finish as represented. 

For stout-waisted forms obtain all the points on the waist line in the same manner as 
explained for Diagram 49 when the blade is proportionate to the breast. 

When the blade is disproportionate to the breast establish the star, as explained in the 
preceding article. Then establish U (Diagram 49) from the star, instead of from S, in all 
other respects the same as explained for Diagram 49. 

SINGLE-BREASTED NOTCH COLLAR VEST. 

Diagram 51. 

A LL the points except the star are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 
50, when the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than the brea.st. 

In this instance the blade size used when drafting is '4 inch more than the proportionate 
blade. The star is therefore established I4 iuch /xukziuird oi vS, as previously explained. 

From the star to V is 34 inch more than % waist. 

For stout-waisted forms obtain all the points on the waist line in the same manner as 
explained for Diagram 49. 

The pattern being cut out, lay it over another piece of paper and mark along the edge 
from 9 to X, 9 to 10 and 10 to 12. 

Remove the pattern and shape the collar from 12 to X to taste or style. 

Cut the projection above 12 off from the pattern of the forepart, the same being now in- 
cluded in the collar. 

La}' the front and back shoulder seams together, even at the outer shoulder points and 
notch both as represented. 

The vest may be made with creased collar, as explained for Diagram 48, if so desired. 



THE -KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 




DIAGRAM 50. 



DIAGRAM 51. 



1 14 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



DOUBLE-BREASTED VEST. 

Diagram 52. 

TDOINTS 13,14, P,0,\' :iiul Y are obtained in the same manner as explained for Dia_t(ram 48. 

O to R is 2 inches. 

\' to W is i3_^ inch when the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than breast. 

Draw a slightly cnrved line from 14 throngh R and W as represented. 

From 13 to X is 2 inches more than the opening, less the width of the back A to H, and 
on to Y I inch more than the front length. 

\Y to 6 is i^ inch more than '2 waist. 

R to 3 is 5 inches. 

From 3 to 4 is i inch. 

Point I is half-way from 14 to R. 

Draw a straight line from O throngh i. 

Draw a straight line from i passing '^ inch forward of W. 

From I to 2 is 2 ^ inches. 

From I to 5 is the same as i to Y. 

Make the lapel I'i inch wide at the bottom and the rise, 3 to 7, the same as the bottom 
of the forepart back of Y. 

Shape the onter edge from 2 through 4 to 7 as represented. 

Draw the crease-line throngh 13 and X. 

From 13 to 8 is the .same as A to H on the back. 

From S to 9 is I inch. From 8 to 10 is -^4 inch. 

Shape the seam edge of the forepart from 13 to a point abont i inch aboye the end of 
the roll, and finish the neck portion below 9. 

All the shaded portion represents the under collar, which is made of silk or thin material 
of color in harmony with that of the vest. It is cut from 2 to i. When the edges are to be 
stitched, it becomes necessary to cut off from the facing the part which is shaded in crossed 
lines from 10 to i. These two parts of the facing are seamed together, making due allowance 
for the seam and a close finish at the end of the collar. 

The lower buttonhole is -^4. inch above 7. 

From the line R W Y to the button-line is -^4 inch less than from the line R 3 to the 
line from 4 to 7. 

Space for the buttonholes as required, and pivoting at i, sweep backward from the eye 
of each buttonhole (3^ inch from the edge of the lapel) to esta'nlish the position of the 
buttons on the button-line. 



THE 'KEYSTONF:" SYSTEMS 



"5 



DiAi'.RAM 33. 

This vest is drafted in all respects the same as precediiij^- diai^ram. The gorge 
extends to i, and the collar and lapels are cut in the same manner as for a frock coat. 

When the waist is less than 4 inches smaller than the breast, establish points I' 
and V in the same manner as shown on and explained for Diagram 49. 

V to W will then be ', inch less than as explained for Diagram 49, or i-^^ inch 
when the waist is 3 inches smaller than the breast, i ' .. inch when 2 inches smaller, 
ih inch when i inch smaller, and i '4 inch when the waist is as large or larger than 
the breast. 





DIAGRAM 52. 



DIAGRAM 53. 



ii6 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



SINGLE-BREASTED DRESS VEST. 

Diagram 54. 

►OINTS K, P, O, R, S, \\ W, Y, 6 and 13 are obtained in the same manner as explained 
for Diagram 48. 

From 13 to X is 3^ inch more than the opening, less the width of the back, A to H. 
From 6 to Z is 2^2 inches. 
From 13 to II is i-:l inch. 
From 13 to 12 is ^^ inch. 
Connect R and S. 

Point 14 is half-way from R to S. From 14 to 15 is i i^ inch. 
Shape the opening through 1 1 and 15 to X. 
From 5 to 7 is I is inch. 

Shape the leaf-edge of the collar through 12, 7 and 14 to X as represented. 
From 12 to 10 is the same as A to H on the back. 
From 9 to 10 is I inch. 
Finish as represented. 



DOUBLE-BREASTED DRESS VEST. 

Diagram 55. 
pOIXTS K, P, O, \', S and 13 are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 

Q to R is i3^ inch ( '4 inch less than as for Diagram 52 which has a cut off lapel). 
V to W is 1^4 inch when the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than the breast. 
Draw a slightly curved line from R through W. 

From 13 to X is 3_^ inch more than the opening, less the width of the back from A to 
H, and on to Y is i inch more than the front length. 
W to 6 is I4 inch more than y^ waist. 
From 6 to Z is 2}4 inches. 

vShape the bottom bv a straight line fi'om Y to Z. 
R to I is 5 inches. 

On the sweep-line from Y to 4 is i', inch. Connect i and 4. Connect R and S 
Point 14 is half-way from R to S. 
From 14 to 15 is 2 inches. 

From I ^ to 1 1 is 3^^ inch. From 13 to 12 is '4 inch. 
Shape the opening as represented. 

From 5 to 7 is i3_^ inch. Shape the leaf-edge of the collar as represented. 
From 12 to 10 is the same as A to H on the back, and 9 to 10 is i inch. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



117 



R to S is 3^_ inch less than R to i. 

Draw a straight line for the l)utt(in-liiie from S to a jjoiiit 3^^ inch backward from Y. 
Establish the buttonholes and, pivoting; at R, sweep from llie e_ve of each buttonhole to 
establish the position of the buttons on the button-line. 
Finish as represented. 

For stout and corpulent forms obtain point U as represented on and explained for 
Diagram 49. U to \' is then i -'s inch when the waist is 3 inches smaller than the breast, 
I '4 inch when it is 2 inches smaller, I's inch when i inch smaller and i inch when the 
waist is as large or larger than the breast. 



^Ct^'O 




DIAGRAM 54. 



DIAGRAM 55. 



nS THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



T 



CLERGYMEN'S VESTS. 

Diagram 56. 

HE ordinary \est worn by clergymen is made single breasted, bnttoning to the neck. All 
the points excepting 1 are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 48. 
The center-of -front is below point i, which is 3^^ inch backward of 15. 
The collar is the same as explained for Diagram 28. 

Diagra:\i 57. 

Points K, P, Q, 13, S, V, Y and Z are obtained in the same manner as explained for Dia- 
gram 48. 

From 13 to 14 is 1-5 breast. 

From 14 to 2 is 3.4 inch. 

From Q to R is li^ inch. 

Draw a slightly curved line from 2 to R. 

From 2 to 15 is ',, breast. 

\" to W is I ' 2 inch when the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than the breast. For stouter 
forms obtain points V and W as explained for Diagram 55. 

Draw a straight line through R and W. 

The broken line from R through W represents the slight curve usually given to the front 
of an ordinary vest. The straightening of the front increases the width at the bottom, as 
from the broken line to Y, and a corresponding amount is taken out by a V as represented. 
The bottom edge should also be drawn in on each side of Y, so that it will lie close to the body. 

The left shoulder is cut off from 13 to 4, and the left forepart from 9 to 12. 

From 16 to 4, S to 9, 6 to 1 1 and Z to 12 are each i inch. 

Mark the buttonholes on the left forepart as represented. 

From 4 to 5 is 2 inches. From 15 to 7 is i inch. 

Make another piece as defined by the shaded portion 13, 15, 7, 5 and 16 back to 13. This 
is to be sewed to the left back at the shoulder seam and the collar is put on to it. 

Make another piece to replace the i inch which has been cut off from the side seam of the 
left forepart. It must be made about i '2 iuch wider than the part cut off, as shown by the 
shaded portion, so as to underlie the buttonholes sufficiently not to show the white under- 
wear. 

This piece is sewed to the left back on the line from S to Z. The edge of the left fore- 
part then overlaps it to the line from 9 to 12. 

The collar is the same as explained for Diagram 28. The end of the collar is 3_,^ inch 
from the center-of -front, as from 1 5 to i . 

The front edge from 3 to Y is laid on a fold of the material. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



119 




DIAGRAM 56. 



DIAGRAM 57. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THE PURPOSE OF MEASURES. 

A S the human form varies in development and attitude, certain measures besides the fun- 
•^^ daniental ones of height, breast, waist and seat, may be advantageously employed to de- 
termine the lengths and widths of the parts of the form. 

When the cutter, after long experience, has become skilful in measuring, taking adequate 
and right measures, it is possible for liim to draft successfully for forms of any shape or size 
without regard to the proportionate lengths or widths. 

For the novice or student to attempt to do this would insure failure upon failure. One 
who has not been properly drilled in measuring the parts of the body will secure better gen- 
eral results by taking only the fundamentals, and making the changes, if any are required, 
which are suggested by a close observation of the shape of the form as instructed in the fore- 
going articles. It will be recognized that the eye must need no small amount of training so 
that it can readily and accurately determine the degree of variation between a form to be 
fitted and an average form. 

Proportionate measures are therefore the foundation upon which the novice, in cutting, 
must begin to build his structure. By the aid of these and the knowledge of how to draft 
the various garments in vogue he can successfully meet the necessities of a large percentage 
of forms with whom he has to deal. Then, as the eye becomes trained to detect variations in 
build and attitude, he will be able to deal satisfactorily with a still larger percentage of forms. 

Among the many necessities to make one successful in custom-garment cutting, we 
emphasize these three. 

First — a knowledge of the proportionate lengths and widths of the body and its parts 
through the entire range of sizes. 

Second — a cultivated eye, so that any deviations from the build or attitude of an average 
or proportionate form can be readily and rightly detected and determined. 

Third — a knowledge of how to measure a form adequatel}- and rightly. 

These three qualifications, when in agreement, will enable the cutter to be free from 
doubt as to the result of that part of the work for which he is altogether responsible. 

When the eye, by observation of the size of the blade or slope of the shoulder is in agree- 
ment with the measures taken, which are larger or smaller than for a form of the same breast 
size as found on the tables, then he is justified in ignoring the lengths or widths on the talale. 
Here the eye and the measures are in agreement and they control. 

When the eye is in agreement with the sizes as given for an average form and cannot 
justify any variation such as a measure would indicate, then the measure may safely be 
regarded as a false one, and the eye, being in agreement with established proportions, must 
control. 

As a rule there will be no variations of any importance between the measures taken and 
those for an average form except sin/i as the eye will readily eoi/Jinu, when one has become, 
by experience, skilful in measuring. 

The purpose then of measures, is to aid the eye to determine, with practical accuracy, 
the degree of variation between the form to be fitted and an average or proportionate form of 
corresponding height and bulk. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



For exani])lc : the proporlioiialc blade size for a man of 36 Ijreast is i i inelies. An 
observation of the form to be fitted, wliich is also 36 breast, indicates that the blades are flat 
as for a man who is extra fnll across the breast. The measure taken is, say, io'/2 inches. 
Here tlie ^ iv diid ///<• ijifanirc fix the amount and ju.stify a variation of y2 inch from the 
blade size for a proportionate form. 

Supposing, also, that the measure taken for the l)]ade is ii'^ inches. If the blades 
are perceptibly full and across the breast flat, the \ariation of '^ inch full is confirmed. 
If not, the cutter may safely consider the measure a false one, and if the disagreement is 
discovered in time, he should remeasure the part until the variation either disappears or is 
confirmed by tiie ej'e. If the variation is not discovered in time, his recollection of the 
shape that it is in agreement with the proportions for an average form should control. 

The cutter will recognize the importance of becoming familiar with tlie proportionate 
lengths and widths for at lea.st the sizes most in demand, so that any deviation between 
these and the measures mav be at once harmonized or confirmed bv the eye. 



122 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THE MEASURES. 

npHE measures for an undercoat are taken over the vest. First notice if there is any undue 
fullness either at the back or front of the vest. If there is, then unbutton the vest and 
unfasten the back strap, pull the vest from the front close in at the back and fasten with a 
pin in front. 

Take customer's height. 

Place the belt around the smallest part of the waist. It must be placed on a level with 
the floor at the sides and back. This can be readih- done by stooping down and bringing it 
to as near a level as the eye will determine. 

The Breast Measure. 

This measure is taken fa //■/]' close with the tape-measure well up over the blades. See 
that the customer breathes naturally and does not expand the chest. On fleshy men it 
should be taken somewhat closer than for a man of medium size, and on slender men it 
should be taken less closely, or an easy measure. 

The Waist Measure. 

This measure is taken fairly closr, over the smallest part for regular and stout forms, 
and easy for men of slender build. 

The Seat Measure. 

This measure is taken over the fullest part and closr as for trousers. The pockets should 
first be relieved of their contents, and customer should stand with the feet close together. 

The cutter now has the fundamental measures and, if familiar, as lie should be, with 
the proportionate lengths and widths for a man of corresponding size, can readih' detect and 
prove any variations which are indicated bv the measures as he proceeds. 

Place the measuring-square in front of the right shoulder at junction of arm and body, 
and make a chalk-mark iip and down opposite the back edge of the square at front of scye as 
shown on Figure 3. 

Place the measuring-square under the arm as shown on Figure 4. The long arm ex- 
tends downward, and the outer edge is even with the mark made at front of scye as on Figure 
3. Make a chalk-mark crosswise at the angle of the .square as at A. Now, keeping the angle 
of the square at A, bring the long arm as nearly perpendiciilar as possible, and make a 
chalk-mark at the natural waist on the outer edge of the square, as at B. 

Place the end of the tape-measure at the left side of the neck and extend it past D over 
the right shoulder down and under the arm and across the back le7Tl with the bottom of the 
scye. Make a horizontal mark opposite the upper edge of the tape at C, as shown on Figure 5. 

Under Arm to Waist axd Sleeve Lengths. 

Place the drafting square under the right arm as shown on Figure 4, and take the length 
to natural waist, as from A to B, and the length required for the sleeve. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



123 





FIGURE 3. 



FIGURE 4. 



The Back Depth. 
Place the end of the tape-measure at the collar-seam D, as on Figure 5, and measure to C. 
The Natural Waist, Seat-Line axd Length. 

Still holding the end of the tape-measure at D, measure to E for the length to the 
natural waist, then to F at the most prominent part for the length to the seat-line, if measur- 
ing for a sack-coat, and on to the full length required. 

If measuring for a frock-coat, take the fashionable waist length, which is usually about 
2 inches below the natural waist. 

The Blade Measure. 

Place the end of the tape-measure at the center-of-back (point C, Figure 5), extend the 
tape to the front, under the right arm, and measure to the perpendicular mark at front of 
scye, as to A on Figure 6. 



124 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



The Front-Depth. 

Place the end of the tape-measure at the mark for the collar-seam D, at the center-of- 
back, extend it down over the front shoulder to the horizontal mark at front and bottom 
of scye, as to A on Figure 7. 

The Over-Shoulder. 

Place the cud of the tape-measure at the centcr-of-back, point C, Figure 5, extend it up 
and over the shoulder, midway between the side of the neck ond the outer shoulder point, 
and down to point A, Figure 7. 

The Back-Waist. 

Place the end of the tape-measure at the center-of-back, point E, Figure 5, extend it 
along the waist line under the arm, and measure to the up and down mark at B, as shown 
on Figure 8. 

The Hale-Back Width. 

This measure is taken from the ccnter-of-back, about 3 inches above C, Figure 5, to the 
side of the back at the fashionable width. 





FIGURE 5. 



FIGURE 6 . 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



^25 





FIGURE 7. 



FIGURE 8. 



Another method for taking the blade, front-depth and over-shoulder measures is by the 
use of the small measuring-square. The square, which has a tape-measure attached at its 
inner angle, is placed under and at the front of the, right arm, and the tape extended under 
the arm and across the blade to the center-of-back C, as shown on Figure 9. Then with the 
measuring-square in the same position extend the tape smoothly up over the shoulder to 
center-of-back D, as shown on Figure 10. This gives the front-depth. Then bring the tape 
midway between the side of the neck and the outer shoulder point and extend it in a straight 
line to C at the center-of-back. This gives the over-shoulder. 

For clerical or militarv coats place the end of the tape-measure at D and measure close 
around on the line of the gorge to the center-of-neck in front, at the depth desired for front 
of gorge. Then still holding the end of the tape-measure at D, bring the tape to the center- 
of-front on the waist line. Hold the tape at the waist, release the end from D and extend 
it up directly to the center-of-neck in front. Note the number of inches on the tape where 
it passes the gorge line at the depth desired. 

All the measures except breast, waist and seat are taken just fair, not close. The breast, 
waist and seat are taken fairly close as previously explained. 

An elastic waist belt having a dark line through its center, and the measuring-square 
with tape attached ready for use can be procured at tlie office of the publishers of this work. 



126 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 





figure: 9. 



FIGURE 10. 



Caution. 



It is evident that if the belt is properly placed around the waist, level luith the floor, 
and that if point C, Figures 5 and 9, has been located as it should be, level luith tJie bottovi of 
the scve, then the difference between the back depth and lengtli to the natural waist will 
just equal the length from under the ann to the natural waist. This should be noted when 
the measures are taken. If they do not agree, the cause must be ascertained and the proper 
remedy applied. Either C is not level with the bottom of the scye, the belt not level with 
the floor, or the measures have been wrongly taken. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 127 



THE OVER-SHOULDER AND BACK- WAIST MEASURES. 

T^OR all the preceding diagrams the over-shoulder quantity, and disposition of the 

waist and hip quantities, have been obtained by proportions which are suitable for a 
large average of forms. 

Any method, however, which fixes these quantities absolutely by proportions is not 
adequate when the form varies materially from the average form in bulk and attitude. 
For this reason it becomes necessary to adopt some method by which these quantities can be 
rightly ascertained which is applicable to all forms, proportionate and disproportionate alike. 

To accomplish this the over-shoulder and back-waist measures are applied on all 
the following coat and vest diagrams. 

The over-shoulder measure fixes definitely the quantity required, as at O. 

The back-waist measure gives the right distribution of the waist size backward and 
forward of S, as forms vary in bulk and attitude. 

The star, the use of which is explained elsewhere, is not required when the back- 
waist measure is applied. It does not, therefore, appear on any of the subsequent 
diagrams, a sufficient number of which are introduced to show clearly how the two 
measures above referred to are applied to the draft. They are drafted from measures 
taken from our order book, and are, therefore, neither ideal nor suppostitious. 

When drafting any kind of coat or vest by the fundamental and short measures as taken 
on the form, the same general method is employed as when drafting by the proportionate 
measures, as explained on the preceding pages of this work, except as above stated and 
as is fully explained for the subsequent diagrams. 

When it is desired to draft any coat or vest given in this work, using the over- 
shoulder and back-waist measures, all other points are obtained in the same manner as 
when drafting by the proportionate measures. 



128 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



SINGLE-BREASTED SACK COAT. 

Diagram 58. 

HE measures actually taken by which the accompanying diagram was produced are for 
a man who is oyer-erect, with snuill blades and high shoulders. 



T 



36 breast. 

37 waist. 
32 seat. 

■ji^ under arm to waist. 
18 sleeye. 



"I'i/j^ back-depth. 
151^ natural waist. 
22 'i .seat line. 



12 I4 front-depth. 
i63^. oyer-shoukler. 
7J2 back-waist. 



28 length. j 7 14 half-back width. 

[0^2 blade. | 

To Draft. 



Scpiare the lines A G and A i. 

Place the end of the tape-measure or drafting square ]^ inch below A and mark the 
back depth at B, natural waist at D, seat-line at E and '^/'^ inch more than the length at i. 
B to C is one-half of the back-depth. Square forward from B, C, D, E and i. 

D to F is y^ inch. Shape the center-back-seam as represented. 

A to G is i^ breast. G to H is sV breast. 

B to K is the blade. K to L is i inch. L to M is '2 inch. 

M to P is i/^ inch less than J/^ breast. 

I is half-way between B and M. Square up from M and P and down from I. 

B to Q is 1-2 of full breast. O to R is 2^2 inches. R to 2 is I's inch when the edges 
are to be stitched, and '4 inch less when bound. 

The natural half-back width is obtained by squaring up from J, which is \y% inch forward 
of I. When drafting by the measured half-back width ^^ inch more than the width is 
applied from C to Z. vSquare up and down from Z. 

Connect H and P. Connect C and M. 

From the line from J through Z to 4 is ^2 inch, or to style, and from the same line to 5 
is 5^ inch. 

Shape the scye from 4 through 5 to K as represented. 

F to T and S to 25 is the back- waist. 

F to T and 25 to V is^^ of full waist when the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than 
the breast. 

When the waist is less than 4 inches smaller than the breast establish V as /explained 
for Diagram 59. 

V to W is 2 '4 inches when the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than the breast. 
When the waist is less than 4 inches smaller than the breast V to W is as explained for 
Diagram 59. 

W to 3 is the same as R to 2. Square down from V and 3. 

E to X and 8 to 9 is '2 of the full seat. 

( Coil tinned on page ijo. ) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



129 




DIAGRAM 58. 



I30 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



SINGLE-BREASTED SACK-COAT. 

( Concluded. ) 

The quantity between T and 25 represents a surplus through the back-waist more than 
the back-waist measure of 2-^4 inches for this draft. The amount to be taken out between T 
and 7 and in the underarm cut depends on style. In this instance T to 7 is i ^4 inch, and 
the fish at S is j^ inch wide, thus leaving i^ inch of fullness through the back waist. 

Shape the side-back from 5 through T and X to Y. 

Shape the side-seam of the forepart from 5, taking out 54^ inch on the breast line, and 
through 7, passing ^i inch back of 9 and the fish below N as represented. 

M to N is 3^ inch less than M to J. 

Shape the bottom from Y toward a point J^ inch below 10. 

M to 1 1 is % breast. Square down from 1 1 for the front of the pocket opening. 

L to 26 is 34 inch more than the front-depth and on to 27 is 34 inch more than the over- 
shoulder. 

Pivot at L and sweep forward from 26. 

Pivot at U and sweep backward from 27. 

Cut out the pattern of the back and lay it in the position shown on the upper part of the 
diagram. A touches the sweep-line from 26, H is on the line which is squared up from P 
and B touches the sweep-line from 27 as at 28. This establishes 13. 

Connect 28 and U. This establishes O. 

Connect 13 and C. 

Shape the shoulder from 13 through O, rounding of? 3^. iuch below the outer back-shoul- 
der point and make 13 to 16 the same as H to 4. 

Finish the scye from 1 6 to K as represented. 

Square forward from 13. 

From 13 to 14 is ^ breast. 

Draw a slightly curved line from 14 through R and W. 

From 14 to 15 is V(^ breast. Shape the gorge from 13 as represented, which in this case 
passes I, inch above 15. It may be shaped above, below or through 15 as style may deter- 
mine. 

Shape the front through 2 and 3 and below 3 to style. 

The collar is drafted in the same manner as explained for Diagram 22. 



132 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



MILITARY BLOUSE. 

Diagram 59. 
npHE measures by which the accompanying diagram was drafted are for an erect form as 



1 



follows : 
38 breast. 
35 ^^'aist. 
40 seat. 

S ^^ under arm to waist. 
1 8 3^ sleeve. 



834 back-depth. 
17 natural waist. 
25 .seat-line. 
27^2 length. 
1 1 '1 blade. 



13 front-depth. 
17^4 over-shoulder. 
8 back-waist, 
y'i half-back width. 
8}4 half-size of gorge. 
7 14 depth of gorge. 



To Draft. 

Square the lines A G and A I; obtain the lengths to B, C, D, E and I, and square the 
cross lines as explained for Diagram 58. 

As the back waist is ver}' small and the coat is to be made close-fitting through the 
waist, the center-back-seam is shaped with a greater hollow at F, which is i inch forward 
of D. 

All the points on and above the breast line, excepting 2, 5, 17 and N, are obtained in 
the same manner as explained for Diagram 58. 

Point 5 is half-way between J and 4. F to T is '4 breast. Square down from T. 

Shape the back as represented. Below T the side seam is shaped throiigh X, which is 
'4! inch forward of the broken line. 

F to T and S to 25 is the back-waist. 

The quantity between T and 25 must all be eliminated when the coat is to be tight- 
fitting through the back-waist. The amount {2^<, inches for this draft) is disposed of as 
follows : 

S to 7 is '2 inch. From 7 to 20 is i inch. The remainder, i-S iuch, is taken out from 
Tto6. 

When the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than the breast, F to T and 2-^ to \' is '2 
of the full waist. 

When the waist is less than 4 inches smaller than the breast proceed as follows : 
F to T and 25 to 12 is ^2 of the full waist as for a form having a waist 4 inches smaller 
than breast. As the breast in this case is 38, a waist 4 inches smaller is 34, so that F to T 
and 25 to 12 is '2 of 34 which is 17. 

As the waist in this case is but 3 inches smaller than the breast, the form is i inch 
stout waisted. Place '3 of it ( '3 of i nich) forward of 12. This gives \\ 

When the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than the breast \' to W is 2 '4 inches. 
When the waist is 3 inches smaller than the breast, as in this case, \' to W is 2 S inches. 
When the waist is 2 inches smaller than the breast \' to W is 2 inches. When the waist 
is I inch smaller than the breast V to W is i "s inch. When the waist is as large or larger 
than the breast V to W is 1^ inch. 

( Cu}iliiiiicd on page /j/. ) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



133 




DIAGRAM 5<). 



134 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



MILITARY BLOUSE, 

( Coiic/iif/('(i.) 

Square down from 12. 

E to X and 8 to 9 is ■-< of the full seat. 

N is half-way between J and M. 

Draw a straight line from N through S and shape the underarm seam as represented. 

Shape the side-seam of the forepart from 5, taking out '^^ inch from the side of the back 
on the breast line, thence through 6, and passing yi inch back of 9 as represented. 

Square down from W and shape the bottom from Y passing ^ inch below 10 as repre- 
sented. 

The line from 15 through R and W is the center-of -front. 

Take the width of the back from A to H, place this at 13 and extend the tape-measure 
to W, then hold the tape at W and extend the end up toward 14. The measure for depth 
of gorge is, in this case, 7 14 inches. Pivot the tape at W and make a short sweep at or near 
15 at I4 inch more than the measure for depth of gorge, 7^ inches. Now apply the meas- 
iire for half-size of neck with ^ inch added, making 9 in all from A to H, and 13 following 
the gorge line until the size required, 9 inches, intersects the short sweep-line just made at 
depth of gorge. This establishes the end of the gorge which in this case is at 15. 

From 15 to 17, R to 2 and W to 3 are each %! inch. On the right side add -^4 inch 
more for button-stand. 

The collar ma}' be as on Diagram 25 or -28. 



'36 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THREE BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK-COAT BODY. 

Diagram 6o. 
T'HE measures bv wliich this diiiorani was drafted are for an erect form with small blades 



1 



as follows : 
35 '/2 breast. 
3 I waist. 
36 seat. 

8^>, under arm to waist. 
20 sleeve. 
8^5 back-depth. 



63^ natiiral waist. 
1814 fashionable waist. 
36 length. 
10' 2 blade. 
I 2 front-depth. 
16V2 over-shoulder. 



7 back-waist. 

y% half-back width. 



To Draft. 

Square the lines A G and A E. 

Place the end of the drafting square l^, inch below A ; obtain the lengths and square the 
lines forward from B, C, D and E. 

For small waists with hollow back-waist D to F is -^4 inch. Shape the center-back-seam 
as represented. 

All the points on and above the bi-east line, excepting 5, 20, J, Ji and N are obtained 
in the same manner as explained for Diagram 58. 

I to J I is I ',8 inch. This would give the natural half-back width. The measure, how- 
ever, was taken to giv-e a wide back and is increased ^2 inch for seams as from C to Z. 
Square up and down from Z. This gives 19 and J. 

N is half-wa}' from J to K. Square down from N. 

Connect 19 and the center-back-seam at the fashionable waist to establish 20. 

Z to 5 is I inch, or to style. F to T is ^/g breast, or to style. 

Shape the back and the scye from 4 to K as represented. 

F to T and S to 25 is the back-waist. 

As the waist is 4 inches smaller than breast, i inch is taken out at the underarm-seam 
as from 7 to 8. 

T to 6 is the .same as T to 25, less the amount alread}- taken out from 7 to S, 2 '4 inches 
for this draft. 

Shape the sidebody from a point -s inch forward of 5, passing '4 inch forward of 20 
and through 6 as represented. 

Shape the underarm-seam from N through 7 and 8 as represented. 

From 20 to 9 is 54 inch more than 20 to the fashionable waist line on the side of the 
back. Point 10 is % inch above the fashionable waist line. 

Shape from 9 to 10 as represented. Square down from R. 

In all cases whether the waist is slim, regular or stout, F to T and 25 to \' is '2 of the 
full waist. \" to W is as explained for Diagram 59. 

W to 3 is the same as R to 2. 

Point 12 is I '2 inch below the fashionable waist line. 

Connect ii and 12 and b_v this line square up to P. Finish as represented. 



THE 'KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



137 




DIAGRAM 60. 



138 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 

SINGLE-BREASTED NO-COLLAR VEST. 

Diagram 61. 



T 



HIS vest goes with tlie coat shown on the preceding diagram. The measures are as 
follows : 

35 i/{ breast. I 10 opening. 

31 waist. 2 2-;4 side-length. 

8H under arm to waist. 25^2 front-length. 

83/s back-depth. 7 back-waist. 
16^ natural waist. 

To Draft. 

Square the lines A 19 and A E. 

Place the end of the drafting square '4 inch below A, m ark the back-depth at B, and 
natural waist at D. 

B to C is one-half of the back-depth. Square forward from B, C and D. 

D to F is 14 inch for each inch that the waist is smaller than breast, i !s inch for this 
draft. Shape the center-back-seam as represented. 

A to G is ^ breast. G to H is A breast. 

B to K is the blade. K to L is i inch. L to M is 'i inch. 

M to P is 3^ breast. ('2 inch more than for the coat.) 

B to Q is 3^ of full breast. 

Q to R is 25^ inches. 

I is half-way between B and M. I to J is i inch. 

Square up from J, M and P. 

Square down from K. 

N is half-way from B to R. 

Connect H and P. This establishes 4. 

Shape the armhole from 4 about i^ inch back of the line above J to a point l-i inch 
below N as represented. 

L to 26 is 54 inch more than the front-depth and on to 27 is 34 inch more than the over- 
shoulder. 

Pivot at L and sweep forward from 26. 

Draw a straight line from L through 26. This establishes U. 

Pivot at U and sweep backward from 27. 

FtoT is I inch more than ^ waist. 

S to V is 1 2 of full waist, less the back-waist. ( 4 of full waist is 15I2 inches, and the 
back-waist is 7 inches. S to Y is, therefore, in this case S'j inches. V is established in the 
same manner for stout forms as above explained.) 

{Continued on page 140.) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



1.39 




DIAGRAM 61. 



I40 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 

SINGLE-BREASTED NO-COLLAR VEST. 

{Conchided}\ 

When the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than the breast, as in this case, \' to W is 
2 14; inches. When the waist is 3 inches smaller than breast, V to W is a^-s inches. When 
the waist is 2 inches smaller than breast, V to W is 2 inches. When the waist is i inch 
smaller than breast, V to W is i Js inch. When the waist is as large or larger than the 
breast, \' to W is iS^ inch. 

W to 6 is I inch more than ] i waist. 

vShape the front by a slightly curved line through R and W, and the side seam from N 
through 6 springing out towards Z ; from N through T springing out slightly towards 7, 
and the bottom as represented. 

Cut out the back, leaving a margin of paper at the bottom, and place it in the position 
shown on the upper part of the diagram. A touches the sweep-line from 26, H is on the line 
which is squared up from P, and B touches the sweep-line from 27 as at 2cS. This 
establishes 13. 

Connect 28 and U to establish O. 

Mark along the back shoulder from 13, and finish the armhole from 16 to 'i inch below 
N, passing y^ inch forward of the line which is drawn upward from M. 

In this instance point O falls on a straight line from 13 to C. It will be on, or above, 
or below this line according to the over-shoulder measure. 

Square forward from 13. 

From 13 to 14 is ^ breast. From 14 to i is 3^ inch. 

A line drawn from i and passing ^ inch backward of R and W is the center-of-front. 

From .26 to 13 and on to X is 3 inches more than the opening. 

From 26 to 13 and on to Z is i inch more than the side length. 

From 26 to 13 and on to Y is i inch more than the front length. 

Shape the opening from 26 passing 34 inch forward of 13 to the sweep-line at X. 

From 26 to 10 is i inch. Shape below 10 to a point I4. inch backward of 13. 

Make the length, N to 7, % inch more than from N to Z. 

D to E is 3:j; inch less than T to 7. 

F*or vests with flat or creased collars and double-breasted vests, proceed in the same manner 
as explained ehsewhere in this work. 



142 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



CLERICAL FROCK-COAT BODY. 



T 



Diagram 62. 

HE measures taken and by which the accompanying diagram is drafted, are for an erect 
form, as follows : 



35 breast. 
31 waist. 

36 seat. 

8-v^ under arm to waist. 
19 .sleeve. 



814 back-depth. 

17 natural waist. 

19I4' fashionable waist. 

37 length. 

10 3/ blade. 



To Draft. 



12 % front-depth. 
16^ over-shoulder. 
7 back-waist. 

7 half-back width. 

8 half size of neck. 
6 34 depth of gorge. 



All the points excepting 2, 3, 12, 15, 21 and 22 are obtained in the same manner as ex- 
plained for Diagram 60. 

Point 15 is obtained as explained for Diagram 59. 

The line from 14 through R and W is the center-of-front. 

From 15 to 22, R to 2 and W to 3 are each 3_^ inch. 

A button-stand of 5^ inch additional is added on to the right side of the forepart as repre- 
sented by the broken line forward of 22, 2 and 3. 

Point 12 is I inch below the fashionable waist line. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



143 




21 12 



DIAGRAM 62. 



144 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



POLICEMAN'S OVERCOAT. 

Diagram 63. 

HB measures by which the accompanying diagram is drafted are taken over the under- 
coat, or as is usually worn, over a heavy cardigan jacket, and are as follows : 



T 



41 breast. 

38 waist. 

43 seat. 

83^ under arm to waist. 

20 sleeve. 



8^ back-depth. 
175^ natural waist. 
20 fashion waist. 
44 length. 
12% blade. 



To Draft. 



13^ front-depth. 
1 83,^ over-.shoulder. 
9 back-waist. 
8 half-back width. 
9^2 half size of neck. 
8 depth of gorge. 



Proceed in all respects not herein referred to in the same manner as explained "for the 
Surtout Overcoat, Diagram 45. 

As the form is small through the back waist, D to F is 3^ inch. 

C to Z is '2 inch more than the half-back width. Square up and down from Z to estab- 
lish 19 and J. 

F to T and S to 25 is the back-waist. 

As the waist is 3 inches smaller than the breast, 3^; inch is taken out at the underarm 
seam as from 7 to 8. which is distributed on each side of i as represented. 

T to 6 is the same as T to 25, less the amount already taken out from 7 to 8. 

F to T and 25 to Y, alike for slim, regular and stout forms, is '2 of full waist. 

V to W is I4 inch less than as explained for Diagram 45, as there is no lapel seam 
on the waist line. 

Finish the back and sidebody as represented. 

L to 26 is i'^ inch more than the front-depth and on to 27 is y^ inch more than the over- 
shoulder. 

Draw a straight line from L through 26 to establish U. 

Pivot at L and sweep forward from 26. 

Pivot at U and sweep backward from 27. 

Cut out the back and place it in the position shown on the upper part of the diagram. 
Point H rests on the line which is squared up from P. A is on the sweep-line from 26 and 
R touches the sweep-line from 27 as at 28. 

Place a weight on the back and mark lightly along the back shoulder. This establishes 1 3. 

Connect U and 28. This establishes O. 

Pivot at 13 and sweep down from the outer shoulder point of the back. From this point 
to 16 is 34 inch. Shape the shoulder from 13 through O to 16 as represented. 

The neck point 15 can be obtained as heretofore explained, or it may be raised or lowered 
according to the wearer's requirements by the application of the neck measures, as- follows : 

( Coniitmed 07t page 146. ) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



145 




DIAGRAM 63. 



146 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



POLICEMAN'S OVERCOAT. 

[Concluded.) 

Take the width of the back from A to H, place this at 13 and extend the tape in a direct 
line to W. Hold the tape at W, extend it toward 14 and make a mark at or near 15 at '^^ inch 
more than the measure for depth of gorge. Then apply the measure for half-size of neck 
from A to H and 13 to 15, increasing ^i inch. 

Pivot at R and sweep forward from 15. 

From 15 to 17 is 13^ inch. 

Square forward from 17 b}- the line from 13 to P. 

From 17 to 18 is 4'^ inches. 

From 18 to 23 is I inch. 

Point 12 is I inch below the fashionable waist line. 

Pivot at a point half-way between 15 and 17 and sweep forward from 12. The sweep 
is shown b}- a broken line. 

From 21 to 22 is 2^ inches. Point 22 is also I4 inch below the sweep-line. 

From the center-of -front line 15 to W to the button-line is 3^_ inch less than from the 
same line to the front edge of the lapel. 

The skirt is drafted in all respects the same as explained for Diagrams 16 and 1 7, except 
that from 8 to 9 is i^ inch. 

The collar is drafted the same as for Diagram 25. The leaf is 2^2 inches wide. 

A pointed side-edge made about -/^ the length of the back-skirt completes the garment. 



THE REGULATIONS OF THE NEW YORK CITY POLICE DEPARTMENT. 

A double-breasted frock to button to the neck with a turndown collar. Length of coat 2 inches below the knee; 9 buttons 
on each side of breast, placed equal distances apart, lower button to be in waist seam. The distance between each row 7 
inches at the top and 3', inches at the bottom, measured from the center of each button, and in such a manner as to form when 
the coat is buttoned a direct line from top to bottom. Edge of coat double-stitched y% of an inch, stitching Vi of an inch to form 
cuff. Lower row of stitching 3V inches from bottom of sleeve, two buttons on each sleeve. Two buttons at the waist seam in 
back and a pointed side-edge of not less than i \ inch with one button at each point, making four buttons at the back of the coat- 
Loops for shield on left breast. Buttons on left side, coat sleeves and back plugged, that is sunk and securely fastened with 
tins at the back. Width of collar 2 '2 inches, to be cut in one piece and without a seam in the back. Skirts to be cut without 
piecing, no wheel pieces. . 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



FIREMAN'S OVERCOAT. 

Diagram 64. 



T 



HE measures b}- which the accompanying diagram is drafted, taken over an undercoat or 
heavy cardigan jacket, are as follows : 

38 breast. 
35 waist. 
40 seat. 

8 under arm to waist. 
19^ sleeve. 

9 back-depth. 



1 7 natural waist. 
1952 fashion waist. 
42 length. 

1 2 J/4 blade. 

1 3 I4 front-depth. 



1854^ over-shoulder. 
834 back-waist. 

8 half-back width. 

9 half size of neck. 
7'/^ depth of gorge. 



To Dr.'VFT. 



This garment is drafted in the same manner as explained for the policeman's overcoat. 
Reference only is made to some details, as follows : 

Establish the end of the gorge, point 15, as explained for Diagrams 59 or 63. 

There being a lapel seam, V to W is the same as explained for Diagram 45. 

Point 12 is I inch below the fashion waist line. 

From 15 to 17 is 1 1^ inch. 

From 17 to 18 is 334 inches. 

From 18 to 23 is i inch. 

From 21 to 22 is 3I4 inches. 

The flap on the skirt is io}4 inches long and 4 inches deep, shaped as represented. 

Side-edges are inserted on the back-skirt, shaped as represented. The length of the 
side-edges is two-thirds the length of the back-skirt. They are ornamented with 3 buttons 
each. 



REGULATIONS FOR THE NEW YORK CITY FIRE DEPARTMENT. 

For chief of department, D. B. F"rock Coat, with rolling collar, lap seams, of dark blue pilot cloth, pure indigo dye, 
weighing: 28 ounces to the yard ; in. length to reach to the knee ; to button close to the neck with eight large regulation buttons 
grouped in pairs ; three on each skirt behind and three of small size on each sleeve at the cuff ; the skirt to be open behind, no 
outside pocket, but one inside on each breast ; the skirts and back to be lined witli red cloth or flannel ; the sleeves to fit snugly 
at wrists and to be lined with linen. 

For all other officers and members same as for chief of department except that there shall be five regulation buttons 
on each breast, placed equi-distant. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



149 




DIAGRAM 64. 



ISO THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



THREE-QUARTER OR MILITARY CAPE. 

Diagram 65. 

CELECT a coat pattern of the size required over which the cape is to be worn. 

Draw a straight line as A B. 

Lay the pattern of the backpart to touch the line at A and ]4 inch forward of it at the 
waist line as represented by the broken lines. 

Mark from A to C. 

La}' the pattern of the forepart with the shoulder seam '2 inch from that of the back- 
part as represented by the broken lines. 

Mark from D to the center-of-front E, and down tlie center-of-front towards F. 

Connect A and E. 

G is half-way from A to E. 

Square out from G. 

G to H is 2 inches. 

A to B is the length. 

Pivot at H and sweep from yi inch above B towards F. 

Reshape the bottom as represented, ]/i inch below the sweep-line to B and F. 

From the center-of-frout line, E F, such changes may be made (b}- adding on or taking 
off) as may be required by the current style. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



151 




DIAGRAM 65. 



152 THE 'KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



HALF-CIRCLE CAPE. 

DlAGRAJI 66. 

npAKE a pattern of a three-quarter cape of the size required, which has been drafted as 
explained for the preceding diagram, and which is represented by points A, B, D, E 
and F. 

Fold point B over to F to find a point half-way from B to F as at C. 

Connect C and the front-shoulder point D. 

D to G is li breast. 

Cut the pattern from D to G and run a tracing-wheel from G to C. 

Fold the paper on the line G C with the hollow of the crease underneath. 

Now lay the pattern out flat, place a finger at the end of the cut at G, raise the crease 
at C and bring it back, overlapping the back of the cape until the line E F is square with 
the line A B. This spreads the cut at the shoulder from D to K. 

Mark the gorge and center-of-front line as represented by K, J and H. C overlaps 
to L. G M is the nnderfold. 

Reshape the edge of the cape at the overlap, free-handed, or if preferred, extend the 
line A B up towards N, and square back from J b}' the line A B to establish N. 

N to P is I inch. 

Pivot at P and sweep from B to H. 

The liglit solid lines D G and K G represent the cut which is made in the three-quarter 
cape pattern from D to G. 

When marking on the material shape the shoulder seam as represented b}- the heavy 
lines, adding % inch at D and K. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



153 



§)F 




DIAGRAM 66. 



154 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



CLOSE CAPE. 

Diagram 67. 

'T^AKE a pattern of an overcoat of the size required and lay the forepart and backpart 
over another piece of paper in the same position as when drafted. 

Mark the breast line, along the back center, scye, shoulder and gorge as represented b}' 
the broken lines. Mark the lapel crease-line and underneath mark the button-line. 

Draw a straight line from A to the back-center at the bottom and remove the pattern. 

A to C is Yz inch more than the length. 

D to E is i^ inch. 

Pivot I inch forward of E and sweep forward from y^ inch above C towards H. 

Shape the seam from E through F and the middle of the scj'e at G as represented. 

Square down from F by the breast line to establish J. 

N to O is i^ inch. 

P is about I inch more than half-way from O to the breast line. 

N to Q is 34 inch. 

Shape the V from P to O and P to Q. 

J to K is the same as J to G. 

Shape the seam from M to O and from O through K towards L, which is as much back 
of the line falling from J as H is forward of it. 

M to O and Q to L is ^i inch more than E to H. 

Pivot I inch forward of M and sweep forward from L. 

The front edge is shaped below M to clear the lapel crease-line, and thence just back of 
the button-line to the bottom. 

Lay the pattern over another piece of paper, and with a tracing-wheel, trace the back- 
part and cut it out, all except across the bottom. 

Lav the backpart in closed position with the forepart, H touching L, and reshape the 
bottoms of both parts from C to R as may be necessary to give a graceful curve from back 
to front. This establishes S and T. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



155 




I C 



DIAGRAM 67. 



156 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



TROUSERS. 

Regular Form. 

'X'HE measures required for trousers are the outside leugth from just over the hip bone to 
the heel, inside length from close up in the crotch to heel, width at bottom to size 
required, or to style, width at knee to size required, or to style, seat taken fairly close over the 
fullest part, customer standing with feet close together and pockets relieved of contents, and 
waist taken close around, just over the hip bone, except in a case when a close fit at the 
waist is not desired, then it can be taken as required. 

The Forepart. 

Diagram 68. 

The measures used are as follows : 

40 outside length. I 17 bottom. I 36 seat. 
30 inside length. | 18^2 knee. | 32 waist. 

To Draft. 

Draw a straight line near the edge of the paper nearest to you and make a mark near 
the top as at O. O to C is the outside length. 

C to A is the inside length. 

A to B is 2 inches less than half-way from A to C. 

A to T is i'3 of the distance between A and O. 

Square forward from each of the aboven amed points. 

A to E is % seat. A to F is '2 seat. 

Square up from E and F to establish D and G. 

Square down from E to establish H. 

F to V and F to X are each ^2 inch. 

Connect V and G. Connect X and G. This establishes S and Z. 

G to U is 14 waist for all forms having a waist not less than 4 inches smaller than the 
seat. 

E to P is Yi seat. 

H to J is ^ seat. 

J to K is 75'2 inches for all small sized bottoms, and 8 inches for large bottoms. 

Draw light straight lines from A to J and from P to K. 

In this instance across the knee between the two straight lines is just one-half the size 
required at the knee as from L to N. When one-half of the size required at the knee is 
larger or smaller than the size between the two straight lines, then points L and N are 
established either outside, as explained for Diagram 71, or inside as explained for Diagram 
70, so that from L to N is one-half of the size required. 

P to R is 3-^ inch. 

Shape between all tlie points as represented and cut out the forepart, making notches at 
A, L and N. 

{Continued oil page 1^8.) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



157 




158 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



TROUSERS. 

Regular Form. 

{Concluded.) 

The Backpart. 

Diagram 69. 

T AY the pattern of the forepart over another piece of paper and confine it by a couple 

of weights. 

Extend the lines across at knee and bottom. 

Pivot at N and sweep from A, T and U. 

D to I is tV seat. 

Draw a straight line from X through i. 

From I to 2 is \i seat and 2 is % inch back of the straight line. 

R to 3 is 3/^ inch. Point 3 is about % inch below the line which is squared across from A. 

Shape the back-seam from 2 through i and ^^ inch forward of the inside fl3'-line of the 
forepart to 3 as represented. 

L to 8 is % inch and N to 9 is the same. 

J to 10 is yi inch more than one-half bottom and K to 1 1 is the same. 

From 5 to'Y is Y^ seat. 

Y to 6 is lYi inch. 

From 2 to 4 is 2 inches more than '2 waist. This allows for a V '2 inch wide at the 
waist seam. 

Shape between all the points as represented and cut out the pattern, making notches at 
7, 8 and 9. 

The Waistband. 

Draw a straight line as from i to 2. 

From I to 2 is ^ waist. 

Opposite I the band is i ^ inch wide, and opposite 2 it is 2 inches. 

Add an outlet i inch wide back of i and a turn-in forward of 2 2 inches wide. 

The straight edge is the seam edge. Shape as represented and notch at i and 2. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



159 




DIAGRAM 69. 



i6o THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



TROUSERS. 

Corpulent Form. 

Diagram 70. 

HE measures used are as follows : 

42 outside leugtli. I iS bottom. I 48 seat. 
30 inside length. | 20 knee. | 48 waist. 



T 



The Forepart. 

Draw a straight line near the edge of the paper nearest to you and make a mark near 
the top as at O. 

O to C is the outside length. 

C to A is the inside length. 

A to B is 2 inches less^than half-way from A to C. 

A to T is 14, of the distance between A and O. 

Square forward from each of the above named points. 

A to E is % seat. 

A to F is ^4 seat. 

Square up from E and F to establish D and G. 

Square down from E to establish H. 

F to V and F to X are each ^2 inch. 

Connect V and G. Connect X and G. This establishes S and Z. 

E to P is y^ seat. 

H to J is i^ seat. 

J to K is 75^ inches for small sized bottoms and 8 inches for large bottoms. 

Draw light straight lines from A to J and from P to K. 

Across the knee between the straight lines for this draft is one-half of 23 inches, while 
the size required is one-half of 20 inches. One-third of the extra size is taken off from the 
straight line at the inseam which gives L, and two-thirds from the straight line at the side 
which gives N, thus making L to N one-half of the size required at the knee. 

P to R is 34 inch. 

For a regular form the waist is 4 inches or more smaller than the seat. In this case the 
waist is 4 inches larger than a regular form and '4 of this or i inch is placed forward of G. 
This gives W. 

W to Q is 5^ of the quantity between G and W. 

Q to U is 5^ waist. 

Shape between all the points as represented and cut out the pattern, making notches 
at A, L and N. 

( Continued on page 1 62.) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



i6i 




DIAGRAM 70. 



i62 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 

TROUSERS. 

Corpulent Form. 

{Coiic/iidrd.) 

The Backpart. 

T AY the pattern of the forepart over another piece of paper and confine it by weights. 

Extend the lines across the knee and bottom. 

Pivot at N and sweep from A, T and U. 

D to I is tV seat and i to M is the same as G to W. 

Draw a straight line from X throngh M. 

M to 2 is % seat. Point 2 is % inch back of the straight line. 

R to 3 is 3/^ inch. Point 3 is abont % inch below the line which is squared across 
from A. 

Shape the back-seam from 2 through M and '4^ inch forward of the inside fl^'-line of the 
forepart to 3 as represented. 

L to 8 is 3-^ inch and N to 9 is the same. 

J to 10 is yi inch more than one-half bottom and K to 1 1 is the same. 

From 5 to Y is ^4 seat. 

Y to 6 is I inch. [Vs inch less than on Diagram 69.) 

For this class of forms a V is not required at the waist line. From 2 to 4 is therefore i 
inch more than ]4i waist. 

Shape between all the points as represented and cut out the pattern, making notches 
at 7, 8 and 9. 

The Wai.stband. 

The waistband is drafted in the same manner as explained for Diagram 69, except that 
the seam-edge is hollowed from a straight line below i and rounded above 2 as represented. 
The top edge is shaped to conform with the run of the seam-edge. 



1 64 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



T 



PEG-TOP TROUSERS. 

Diagram 71. 
HE measures used are as follows : 



40 outside length. 


16 bottom. 


36 seat. 


30 inside length. 


20 knee. 


32 waist 



The Forepart. 

All the points not herein referred to are obtained in the same manner as explained for 
Diagram 68. 

In this instance one-half of the size required at the knee establishes L and N outside of 
the straight lines drawn from A to J and from P to K. 

A to I is V2 inch. 

Shape as represented. 

The Backpart. 

All the points excepting point 6 are obtained in the same manner as explained for 
Diagram 69. 

Y to 6 is 2 inches, ( '2 inch more than on Diagram 69). 
Shape as represented. 

The Fly. 

The fly is shown on the superimposed diagram. It is drafted as follows : 
Lay the pattern of the forepart over another piece of paper and mark around it from D 
to G and G to R as shown by l)roken lines. 

R to I is I '2 inch. G to 3 and from 3 to 4 are each 2 inches. 

Shape the seam-edge from G to i, hollowing '2 iuch at 2 as represented. 

Point 4 is 3/j^ inch above the broken line. 

The end of the strap below 4 is i inch wide. 

Shape the free edge as represented. 

The material on the left or fl}- side is cut off on the broken line below 3. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



165 




DIAGRAM 71. 



i66 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



T 



CLOSE-FITTING TROUSERS. 

Diagram 72. 
HE measures vised are as follows : 

40 outside length. I 1 7 bottom. I 36 seat. 
30 inside length. | 16 knee. | 32 waist. 



Obtain all the points not herein referred to in the same manner as explained for 
Diagrams 68 and 69. 

The size across at the knee between the straight lines drawn from A to J and from P to K 
is in this instance one-half of 19, or 9I2 inches. This is i}4 inch more than one-half of the 
size required, which is S inches. One-third of this, or ^ inch, is taken off from the straight 
line below P, which gives L, and the remainder is taken off from the straight line from A 
to J, which gives N. L to N is therefore one-half of the knee. 

Y to 6 is 1 14 inch. 

Shape as represented by the heavy lines. 

Spring Bottoms. 

These are also made close throughout, but are sprung out more or less sharply over 
the foot. 

For this example the size of the bottom is 21 inches. 

J to 12 is H inch more than one-half bottom and K to 13 is the same. 

Shape to 12 and 13 as represented. 

The forepart will follow the heavy line from J below H to K, and the backpart the 
light line from 13 through H to 12. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



167 




DIAGRAM 72. 



1 68 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



TROUSERS WITH BROAD-FALLS. 

Diagram yz- 

npHE forepart is first drafted in the same manner as explained for Diagrams 68 or 70, 
except that it is raised i inch above what wonld usually be the waist seam, O U, as 
represented. 

Q and U are the same as shown on Diagram 70. 

The shaded part represents the bearers and includes the width of a waistband. 

To produce the bearers, lay the pattern of the forepart over another piece of paper and 
mark by it as from U towards 3. 

Mark Q and below Q along the edge of the outside fly-line and remove the pattern. 

Add i^ inch above Q and U and ^ inch forward of O. This gives points i and 2. 

The opening at the side is usually 7 to 8 inches deep, and at the front about 4.^2 inches 
below Q. 

Pockets are usuallv inserted in the bearers as represented, but may be placed at the 
side if desired. 

The fronts of the bearers are held in place by buttons ai:d buttonholes. Buttonholes are 
also placed in the top of the fall, one near U and one or two at intermediate points between 
U and Q. Buttons are sewed on to the bearers at corresponding points. 

The fall is usually Hned with the same material used for the trou.sers. 

The dress is cut the same as for a fly-front. 

Diagram 74. 

The backpart is drafted in all respects the same as for other trousers, except that the 
width of a waistband is cut on whole with the backpart as represented. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



169 





DIAGRAMS 73 AND 74, 



lyo 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



KNEE-BREECHES. 

Diagram 75. 
npHE measures used are as follows : 

24 length to knee. I 17'^ inseam to garter. I 36 seat. 

27 length to garter. | 32 waist. \ 143.^ knee, 13 '2 garter. 

The Forki'Art. 

Square the lines O C and O G. 

O to B is the length to knee. 

O to C is the length to garter. 

C to A is the inseam from crotch to garter. 

A to T is '3 the distance from A to O. 

Square across from T, A, B and C. 

A to E is 1+ seat. A to F '.i seat. 

Square up and down from B to establish D and H. 

Square up from F to establish G. 

F to V and F to X are each }4 inch. 

Connect V and G. This establishes S. 

Connect X and G. This establishes Z. 

E to P is ''3 seat. P to R is 3^ inch. 

When the waist is 4 or more inches smaller than the seat, the center-of-front will remain 
at G. When the waist is less than 4 inches smaller than the seat, the center-of-front is 
advanced as explained for Diagram 70. 

G to U is 1 2 waist. 

H to L and H to N are each I4 knee. 

Draw a straight line from P through L to establish K. 

K to J is '2 of the size at garter. 

Shape the side seam from U through A, N and J, the outside fly-line from G through Z 
to R, the inside fl3--line from G through S to P, the inseam from P and R through L and K, 
and the bottom '2 inch below J and K, all as represented. 

Cut out the pattern of the forepart, making notches at A, L and N. 

The Backpart. 

Lay the pattern of the forepart over another piece of paper. Extend the knee-line past 
L and N. Pivot at N and sweep from A, T and U. 

D to I is Ti seat. Draw a straight line from X through i . 

From I to 2, which latter point is ^4 inch backward of the straight line, is % seat. 

R to 3 is -•■^ inch. 

Shape the back-seam from 2 to 3 as represented. Between S and P it is '4 inch for- 
ward of the inside fly-line, and point 3 is a trifle below the line which is squared forward 

from A. 

[Coitliiiitcd on page IJ2. ) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



171 




K jll 

DIAGRAM 75. 



172 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



KNEE-BREECHES. 

( L oin hided. ) 

From 2 to 4 is 2 inches more than '2 waist for all small waists. This allows for seams 
and a \' '2 inch wide to be taken out on the waist seam as represented. 

From 5 to Y is 1-2 seat. 

Y to 6 is \% inch. 

L to 8 and N to 9 are each 'i inch. 

K to 10 and J to 1 1 are each V-, inch. 

Shape the outside seam from 4 through 6 and 9 to 11, the inside seam from 3 through 
8 to 10, and the bottom from 10 to 11 as represented. 

Add a button-stand 1 14 inch wide from i inch above B to the bottom as represented. 

The extra length of '2 inch, which is given to the forepart below J and K, is put full on 
the backpart from just below the knee to the bottom, and the fullness pressed in to form a 
pocket for the knee. 

Cut out the pattern and make notches at 7, 8 and 9. 

Make the garter Y^ inch wide, the finished size. 

The tops are finished with a regular waist-band and top pockets. 

The fronts may close with a fly, or with a narrow fall-down as shown on Diagram 79. 



174 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



T 



CYCLING BREECHES. 

Diagram 76. 

HE measures used are as follows : 

24 length to sniall-of-knee. | 34 waist. | 13 sniall-of-kiiee. 

14^2 inseam to sniall-of-kuee. | 37 seat. j 14'j calf. 

Thk Forepart. 

Square the lines O C and () G. 

O to B is the length to sniall-of-knee. 

B to A is the inseam. 

B to C is 23^ inches for the fall. 

A to T is 5^ of the distance from A to O. 

Square across from T, A, B and C. 

A to E is I4 seat. A to F is '2 seat. 

Square up and down from E to establish D and H. 

Square up from F to establish G. 

F to V and F to X are each '3 inch. 

Connect G and V to establish S. 

Connect G and X to establish Z. 

W is obtained in the manner explained for Diagram 70. 

E to P is ^3 seat. P to R is i inch. 

H to J and H to K are each '4 of small-of-knee. 

Draw straight lines from a point ' , inch outside of A to J and from P to K. 

W to U is j4 waist. 

Shape the outside seam from U, passing l4 inch outside of A to J ; the fly seams from 
\V through S to P and through Z to R ; the inseam from P and R to K and the bottom from 
J to K as represented. 

The outside seam can be shaped with an}' desired fullness as from i to N and 2 to L is 
made the same as i to N. 

Add 134 inch above U and G for the waistband. 

The button-slit is 2 inches from J and is 2 inches long. 

Cut out the pattern and make notches at A, N and L. 

( C(»ili)iiicd on paof /y6. ) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



175 




DIAGRAMS 76, 77 AND 78. 



176 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



CYCLING BREECHES. 

( Coiuhidcd. \ 

The Back tart. 

Diagram 77. 

T AY the patteru of the forepart over another piece of paper, extend the knee and bottom 

lines and sweep out from A, T and U, pivoting at J. 

D to 2 is '_> inch more than '5 seat. 

Draw a straight line from X to a point '2 inch forward of 2. 

R to 3 is I inch. Shape the back-seam as represented from 2 to 3. Point 3 is a trifle 
below the line, which is sqnared across from A. 

From 2 to 4 is 2 inches more than 'j waist, when a \' is desired at the waist seam. For 
large waists a \' is not required, and 2 to 4 is i inch more than '^ waist. 

From 5 to Y is yi seat. Y to 6 is 2 inches. 

K to 10 and J to 11 are each '2 inch. 

Add the width of a waistband above 4 and 2. 

Finish as represented ; cut out the pattern and make notches at 7, 8 and 9. 

The Contintations. 

Diagram 7S. 

Draw a straight line as A D. 

A to D is 4 inches. 

Square across from A and D. 

A to O is -^4 inch. A to B is the same as from the slit to K on the forepart. Sqnare 
down from B. 

O to C is I ' J inch more than the small-of-knee. 

B to E is '2 inch. Shape the npper edge from A through E and C as represented. 

E to F is '2 inch Square down from F. 

D to G is '2 inch. 

G to H is I inch more than the calf. 

E to J is the same as A to G. 

Shape from E and from F to J ; from G through J and H, and add i inch outside of C 
and H for the button-stand. 



178 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



RIDING BREECHES. 

Diagram 79. 

'npHE breeches are usiiallv made from whipcord. \\'hite l^uckskin or stockinette is used 
when the coat is from scarlet cloth. The continuations may be of the same material 
as the breeches or of box-cloth as preferred. 

The measures used for the accompanA-ing diagrams are as follows : 

23^ waist to knee-cap. 16^2 crotch to small-of-knee. 13 small-of-knee. 

26^4 to small-of-knee. 33 waist. 14'.' calf (largest part). 

30 to calf. 38 seat. 11 '4 bottom. 

35 to bottom. 15 bent knee. 

The last four measures are taken snug and over the stocking. A tape should be 
fastened around the small-of-knee and the second and fifth measures taken to it. 

The Forepart. 

Square the lines O A and OH. O to A is the difference between the second and fifth 
measures, 10 inches for this draft. Square forward from A. A to B is ^2 seat, g'' i inches. 

B to C is Tis seat, about -"-s inch. B to D is S seat, 2^^ inches. 

B to E is % seat, 3^^ inches. F is half-way from A to D. 

Square up from B and F to establish H and G. G to K is I4 inch less than '4 waist, 
3 7s inches. K to J is '2 waist, 8^4 inches. 

Connect C and H. B to i and C to 2 are each '(, seat, 3^^ inches. 

Shape the top from J to I, which is 'i inch beloAv H ; the front through I and i to 
D, and through 2 to E as represented. I to K is 3,4 inch. 

Draw the line from K towards L parallel with the line I to J. K to L is 2 inches. 

Connect F and L. L to M is two-thirds of the distance from L to F. Square down from F. 

G to N is I inch more than the length from waist to knee-cap, 24^4^ inches. 

G to P is I inch more than to small-of-knee, 27^2 inches. 

G to Q is 1 inch more than to calf, 31 inches. 

Square forward and backward from N, P and O. Nto R is '4 bent-knee, 3-^4. inches. 

P to 3 is J.4 small-of-knee, 3^4 inches. O to S is '4 calf, 3f>, inches. 

Shape the inseani from D and E to 3 as represented. P to Z is i inch. 

Pivot at Z and sweep up and down from 3. From 3 to X and 3 to Y are each ^4 inch. 

Connect Z and X. Connect Z and Y. Finish the inseam from Y to S and the dail as 
represented. Q to T is tV seat, about if's iuch. 

Connect A and T. This establishes U. R to \' is '.' inch less than "2 of bent- 
knee, 7 inches. A to W is tV seat, about i^i inch. 

Shape the outside seam from J through \\", \' and V to T as represented. 

A small tab to finish about 1 34 inch long and i inch wide is added at the bottom as 
from T to 4. The notch at 5 is '2 inch above U. The notch at 6 is 4 inches above the 
notch at 5. Notch at W. Mark for five buttonholes, the middle one opposite U and the 
others i inch apart. There is also a buttonhole in the tab. 

( Coiititiucd on pagr iSo. ) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



179 




I w 



DIAGRAM 79. 



i8o THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 

RIDING BREECHES. 

[Coii/nnird.) 
Thk Backi'ART. 

Diagram So. 

T AY the pattern of the forepart over another piece of paper and extend the lines past R 
^ and vS. 

Draw lines i inch al)0\e \' towards 21, parallel with the line \' R, i inch above V 
towards 20, parallel with the line U 3 and i inch above T towards 19, parallel with the 
line T S. Pivot at 3 and sweep ont from E. 

Pivot at W and sweep ont from J. 

E to 8 is '2 inch more than tV seat, 2S inches. 

Shape the inseani from 8 towards 3 as represented. 

From 3 to 14 is I S inch. 

Establish O opposite and i', inch from U as represented. 

Pivot at O and sweep down from 14. 

From 14 to 16 is i inch. Shape the dart from () to 14 and to 16 as represented. 

Extend the line below 16 parallel with the inseam above 14- 

From 16 to 17 is I inch. 

Finish the inseam from 17 to 18 parallel with the forepart. 

S to T and 18 to 19 is i inch more than the fnll calf, 15 '2 inches. 

From 3 to U and 3 to 20 is i inch more than the small-of-knee, 14 inches. 

R to \' and 15 to 21 is i inch more than the bent-knee, 16 inches. 

\V to 13 is the same as A to W on the forepart. 

Shape the ontside seam from 13 through 21 and 20 to 19 and add i ' .. inch for a bntton- 
stand as represented. Shape the bottom from 18 to 19. 

I to 9 is ]'^ seat, 2^8 inches. Draw a straight line from D throngh 9. 

From 9 to 10 is Y^ seat, 434 inches. Point 11 is directlv opposite 2. 

Shape the back seam from '4 inch backward of 10 throngh 9 and 11 to 8 as 
represented. 

From 10 to 12 is 3^^ inch more than "2 waist, 9 inches. 

From 19 to the notch at 22 is the same as from T to the notch on the forepart at 5. 
The notches at 23 and 24 are opposite the notches at 6 and 7. 

Measure the forepart between the notches at 6 and W and make from 23 to 13 the 
same. Also measure from W to J and make from 1 3 to 1 2 the same. 

Add 1 3_^ inch above 12 and i '4 inch above 10 for the waistband and finish as 
represented. 

The reinforcements, made of bnckskin, extend np two-thirds the length of the leg 
above S. 

( C 'oiiliiiitrd oil />((;''■ I 'S3. ) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



i8i 




Q T 

DIAGRAM 



iS2 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



RIDING BREECHES. 

( Continued. ) 
Thk Continuations. 

Diagram Si. 

COUARE lines T S and T i. 

Points T, Q and S are the same as the corresponding points on Diagram 79. 

Square down from S. 

T to I and S to 2 are each tlie same as the difference between tlie lengtli to calf and to 
bottom, 5 inches. 

From I to 3 is 5/8 inch. 

Shape from T to 3 and '2 inch above the line T S as represented. 

Diagram 82. 

Sqnare lines 2 to 3 and 2 to 6. 

From 2 to 19 is '4. inch. 

From 19 to iS is the same as between the corresponding points on the backpart, 
Diagram So. 

From I S to 3 is ^4^ inch. 

From 18 to I is the same as 18 to Q on Diagram 80. 

Sqnare downward from i and 3. 

From 2 to 6, I to 5 and 3 to 4 are each the same as from T to i on Diagram 81. 

The size required around the bottom is 1 1 "4. inches. To this must be added I'j inch for 
6 seams. This gives 12 -''4 inches. By measuring from 2 to 3 on Diagram Si and from 4 to 6 
on Diagram 82, we find that we have 17'/^ inches, which is 4-^s inches too much. This is 
disposed of by taking out h, of it, or l/% inch from 2 to 4 on Diagram 81 and the same amount 
from 4 to 10, 5 to 9, 5 to 8 and 6 to 7 on Diagram 82. 

The top is shaped ^i inch above the line from 2 to 3. x'\dd 1^2 inch for the button- 
stand and finish as represented. 

( Coil /ill lied on pa^'^r /iVy. ) 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



183 




2 4 



1 3 




4 10 



958 

DIAGRAMS 81 AND 82. 



7 6 



1 84 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



RIDING BREECHES. 

( Concluded. ) 
Diagram S3. 

/^N this diagram is represented the upper part of Diagrain 79, with tlie fall turned 
^"^ down. 

To form the bearer, which is represented by the shaded part, proceed as follows : 

From the front of the fall to A is 3_^ inch. 

A to B is 2)^ inches. 

M is the same as on Diagram 79. 

Shape the bearer from A to B and B to M as represented. 

The band is cut 2^4 inches wide and extends from the side seam to the front of the 
bearer. 

The band may be cut whole with the forepart from the side seam to the inside seam of 
the bearer if desired. In such case that part of the baud which is forward of the line above 
M is cut whole with the bearer, the seam above M extending, of course, to the top of the 
band. 

Diagram 84 

Shows the position c^f the fall when in place, finished with a welt i '4 inch wide, which 
is sewed to the inseam of the fall, stitched all around and tacked at and across its pointed 
end. The falls and bearers are held in place by buttons and buttonholes as represented. 

Diagram 85. 

The breeches mav be cut without the darts at small-of-knee if preferred, as shown on 
this diagram. 

Points N, P, O, R, 3, S, T, U, \' and the notches at 5 and 6 are obtained in the same 
manner as explained for Diagram 79. The inseam is shaped to 3 and the dart is omitted. 
The notch at 8 is '2 inch above 3. The notch at 7 is 4 inches above S. 

To draft the backpart, first draw straight lines i inch above and parallel with line \' R, 
I inch above and parallel with line V 3, i inch above and parallel with line T S. 

vShape the inseam towards 3. This establishes 17. 

Extend the line below 17 to 18, parallel with line 3 to S. 

S to T and 18 to 19 is i inch more than the calf. 

From 3 to U and 17 to 20 is i inch more than the small-of-kuee. 

R to V and 15 to 21 is i inch more than the bent-knee. 

The notch at 9 is U inch above 17 and at 24 is opposite 7. 

From 19 to the notch at 22 is the same as from T to 5 and from 22 to 23 is i inch less 
than from 5 to 6. 

The fullness or extra length of i inch on the forepart between the notches 5, 6, 7 and 8 
is put on full to the backpart between the notches 22, 23, 9 and 24. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



i«5 





S Q T 

DIAGRAMS 83, 84 AND 85. 



i86 THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



HOOD. 

DiACxRAM 86. 

yVTHEN the hood is to be worn over the overcoat, lay the pattern of the backpart to 
touch a straight line as at B and ^2 inch from the line at the waist as at D. Mark 
frcnn B to G and along the shoulder seam. 

Lay the pattern of the forepart with the shoulder seam touching the backpart as repre- 
sented by the broken lines and mark along the neck-gorge to the center-of-front at H. 

B to E is the length. E to D is Ve, breast. Square across from B and D. 

B to L is y^ i"c^ more than 'j. breast. Square up from L. H to J is i inch. Sweep 
from J, pivoting at G, to establish K. 

D to O is ]4 breast. O to P is 2 inches, or to style. Draw a straight line from K to P. 
M is I inch less than half-way from K to P. ]\I to N is i inch. vShape the front edge from 
H through K and N to P. Connect E and P. 

B to E is cut on the fold of the material. A hem is usually added from J to P, in which 
a drawing-string is inserted. 

The hood does not always extend to the center-front at H. It may be reduced i inch or 
more as from H to J. The shape of the neck seam (B to J or H) is as required when the 
hood is worn with a coat that buttons to the neck. When the coat has revers it should be 
shaped from B through G to K. 

When the hood is to be worn over a cape, the cape should first be drafted as explained 
for Diagrams 65, 66 or 67. Then lay paper underneath the cape pattern, get the lines 
B E and B H by the cape and proceed as above explained. 



To draft a hood independent of the coat pattern proceed as follows : 

Draw a straight line as A E. 

A to B is 1 2 inch more than y^ breast. 

B to E is the length. E to D is y^ breast. Square across from A, B and D. 

D to O is % breast. O to P is 2 inches, or to style. 

B to F is % breast. B to L is '4 inch more than ', breast. Square up from F and L. 

F to G is A breast. H is at the center-of-front. H to J is i inch more or less as desired. 
Q is half-way from G to J. O to R is i inch. vShape the neck seam from B through G and 
R to J or H as required. 

Pi\'ot at G and sweep from J to establish K. 

For a coat or cape which closes at the throat, the neck of the hood is shaped as above 
explained, but when there are revers it is shaped from B to K. 

Shape the front edge from H, J or K through N to P and connect E and P. 



THE ''KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



187 




DIAGRAM 86. 



i8S THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



SHORT GAITERS. 

Diagram S;. 

"DLACE one arm of the drafting square on the floor in tlie same direction as the foot, the 
other arm extended upwards witli the angle opposite the heel as represented. 
Call off the measures as 



To hollow above heel, 33^. 
Length, 5'2 ■ 

Indentation at hollow above heel, 3_^. 
Size at top, 10. 



Size at hollow above heel, ii^4- 
Instep, 14 ''2. 
Bottom, 195^. 



To Draft. 

Square the lines A C and AH. 

A to B is 14^ inch more than to hollow above heel, 3-^4 inches. 

A to C is ^4 inch more than the length, 6 inches. 

Square across from B and C. 

B to D is the indentation at hollow above heel, 3_,. inch. 

C to E is the same as B to D. 

E to F is 1 2 inch more than one-half of size at top, 5I2 inches. 

D to G is y2 inch more than one-half of the size at the hollow above heel, 6 % inches. 

A to G is J4 inch more than one-half of instep, yy^ inches. Square down from F. 

A to H is one-half of the size of bottom, gi/^ "levies. 

Square up from H. 

H to J is I inch. 

K to L is 1 2 inch. 

Shape between all the drafting points as represented. 

The top is raised ^2 inch above F. 

The button catch is 2 inches wide as from F to M. This should be straightened % 
inch at the top and at the bottom to tighten the closing edge at the side of the foot as repre- 
sented by the button catch on the diagram for long gaiters. 

The measures used are right for a number 6 shoe. 



THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 




DIAGRAM 87. 



[go THE "KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



LONG GAITERS. 

Diagram <SS. 

'TpHE measures are taken in the same manner as explained for the short gaiters, excepting 
that the back edge of the square is pkaced opposite the Largest part of the calf. The 
measures by which the gaiters were drafted are as follows : 



To hollow above heel, 3'-; 
To small-of-ankle, 5I2. 
To largest part of calf, 13. 



Size at top, 133^. 
Size at calf, 14I2. 
Size at small-of-ankle, 10. 



Full length, 17^. Size at hollow above heel, 11%. 

Indentation at bottom, l4. Instep, 14%. 

Indentation at hollow above heel, 1^4;. Bottom, 19^2 . 
Indentation at top, '2. 

To Draft. 

Scjuare the lines A E and A Q. 

A to B is '4 inch more than to hollow above heel, 334; inches. 

A to C is }^ inch more than to small-of-ankle, 55^ inches. 

A to D is % inch more than to largest part of calf, 1354. inches. 

A to E is ^ inch more than full length, 18 inches. Square across from B, C, D and E- 

A to F is the indentation at bottom, '2 inch. 

B to G is the indentation at hollow above heel, i ^4. inch. 

C to H is the same as B to G. 

E to I is the indentation at top, i'2 inch. 

I to J is l4 inch more than one-half of size at top, 7 I4 inches. 

D to K is J4 inch more than one-half of size at calf, 7^ inches. 

H to L is 1/2 inch more than one-half of the size at small-of-ankle, 5I2 inches. 

G to M is ^ inch more than one-half of the size at hollow above heel, 6% inches. 

F to M is ]4 inch more than one-half of instep, 73^ inches. Square down from L. 

F to Q is one-half of bottom, 93^ inches. 

Q to R is I inch. 

N to P is ^ inch. Shape between the drafting points as represented. 

J to S is 2 '2 inches. 

Shape the button catch below S, parallel with the line J to R. 

The button catch as first drafted is represented by the broken lines on the diagram at 
the left. It should be straightened on each edge 14. inch at the top and bottom as repre- 
sented by the solid lines. This will tighten the closing edge at the side of the foot. 



THE -KEYSTONE" SYSTEMS 



191 




NPR 



29 1993 









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1 


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